Page 73 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)
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                 Montreal Jazz Festival                                                                                                           FESTIVALS





                                   vs Montreux Jazz Festival                                                                                      AND PARTIES




                      With over 750 concerts by 3,000 artists from more than 30 countries, Montreal’s show-stopping, multi-genre music festival
                                      dwarfs the one in Montreux, and whips millions of festival-goers into a frenzy each year




                                                           the planet. And it’s an intoxicating musical cocktail,   John Lee Hooker, Dave Brubeck, Dizzy Gillespie,
                  NEED TO KNOW
                                                           a kaleidoscope of intermingling energies and   Muddy Waters, and Ray Charles to an event he felt
                  LOCATION Montreal is in the
                  province of Quebec, in eastern           styles set against a vibrant urban backdrop.  sure would wow the international stage. And from
                  Canada                                      The Festival International de Jazz de Montréal –   the very first festival in 1980, his magical laid-back
                  WHEN The festival takes          "UMBOUJD  to give the event its full name – lasts 11 days and   formula has worked. The easy-going atmosphere
                  place at the end of June/  $ "/"%"  0DFBO
                  beginning of July in a four-             11 nights. Around 750 concerts take place in that   he creates encourages both musical discovery and
                  block site at the heart of               time. Over half are outdoors and free. But there are   revelry. It’s an environment in which global stars
                                   7BODPVWFS
                  downtown Montreal       .0/53&"-
                                                           also countless impromptu gigs, so you can soak up   are content to rub shoulders with up-and-coming
                  VISITORS PER YEAR              0UUBXB
                                            5PSPOUP        the carnival atmosphere of Latin jazz, take in some   local talent hoping for a springboard break.
                  More than 2.5 million people   6 4 "
                  descend on the city for the festival     smoldering salsa, or follow the gentle strains of   The festival brings Montreal’s traffic to a
                                                           acoustic folk in an underground bar.       standstill as downtown becomes one huge
                                                              Arrive at the festival in time for the morning   musical extravaganza. Midway through the festivities
                 Switzerland’s Montreux Jazz Festival claims to be   sound-checks to claim your place for the   comes the “Special Big Event” – now a Montreal
                 the biggest in the world – an assertion that doesn’t   supporting acts at noon, then party on into the   tradition. It’s a show of epic proportions – perhaps
                 quite stand up to scrutiny when you compare it   wee small hours to an eclectic musical repertoire.   a gig by Urban Sax, stellar guitarist Pat Metheny, or
                 with the jazz festival in Montreal. Quebec’s full-on   The summer celebrations and the city’s funky mix   South African musician Johnny Clegg – and usually
                 musical jamboree sends pulsating rhythms   of cafés, galleries, bistros, and green spaces draw   draws an audience of around 200,000.
                 coursing through downtown Montreal’s      crowds of every age, every musical taste, and from   Away from the music, a popular art exhibition
                 thoroughfares. Rapturous melodies permeate   every corner of the globe, and unite them in a   presents exclusive works by some of the artists who
                 every bar, café, basement joint, and city square –   heady celebration of melody and rhythm.   have performed here – Miles Davis, Diana Krall,
                 from syncopated staccato trumpet solos and soul   Founder Alain Simard demonstrates an   Norah Jones, and Tony Bennett, to name but a few.
                 serenades to big-band jazz, R&B classics, and   unshakable belief in Montreal’s musical pedigree.   Surpassing the wildest dreams of even its
                 percussive bossa nova beats. This is the jazz festival   He’s the man responsible for bringing such   founder, the Montreal Jazz Festival is the world’s
                 that Guinness World Records logs as the largest on   big-name acts as Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald,   ultimate jazz rendezvous.


                    FORGET THE MONTREUX                                                                 PRACTICAL INFORMATION
                    JAZZ FESTIVAL?                                                                      Getting There and Around  is inexpensive – even at high-
                                                                                                        Trudeau International Airport is   end joints – compared to other
                    THE BUILD-UP Switzerland’s ground-breaking festival is an                           about 30 minutes by cab from   global cities. Check out
                    annual showcase of every imaginable style of music. It has placed                   downtown Montreal. Many of the   Le Piment Rouge (www.
                                                                                                                           lepimentrouge.com) for a
                                                                                                        city’s streets become traffic-free
                    the quaint village of Montreux on the map since 1967, and is a                      for the festival. Getting from A   flavor-packed gourmet thrill.
                    popular musical getaway for European festival-lovers.                               to B is a breeze – simply hop   Where to Stay
                                                                                                        aboard the Métro or make   For excellent links to buses, the
                    THE LETDOWN It takes Swiss precision to organize one                                your journey by foot.   Métro, bars, restaurants, and
                    of the world’s largest music festivals and this super-slick                         Where to Eat       venues, check in to Hotel Jazz
                    operation is oiled so perfectly it lacks the spontaneity that’s                     In terms of the number of   (www.hoteljazzmontreal.com),
                    synonymous with raw jazz. A decade ago, the festival expanded                       restaurants per capita, Canada’s   in the heart of the downtown
                    to become a three-week extravaganza including music from all                        gastronomic capital is second   Latin Quarter (Quartier Latin).
                    continents, to the disapproval of some festival-goers who feel   ABOVE A turn-off for many hardcore jazz fans – the   only to New York City in North   Budget per Day for Two
                                                                  Montreux festival’s recent focus on world music  America. Gallic flourishes abound   Around US$150.
                    it has lost its focus.                                                              – a culinary legacy of the
                                                                                                        country’s French colonial past.   Daytime Temperature
                    GOING ANYWAY? For an up-close-and-personal Montreux experience, give the two main stages a miss   Thousands of high-caliber cafés,   A rather warm and sticky
                    in favor of the smaller Montreux Jazz Café and the cluster of tiny open-air venues. Even better, attend   bistros, and restaurants make   86°F (30°C) at festival time.
                    the intimate performances that take place on cruise-boats on the lake.              good use of a huge variety of   Website
                                                                                                        fresh, top-quality produce. Food   www.montrealjazzfest.com







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