Page 74 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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FESTIVALS AND PARTIES FORGET KO PHA

NGAN?

THE BUILD-UP In the early 1980s, travelers
started to arrive on the shores of Ko Pha Ngan
island, following a whispered rumor of all-night
raves on the silver sands. The rumor turned
into a scene, which went on to become a
phenomenon. Two decades later Ko Pha Ngan’s
full moon parties are up there with Ibiza on the
international party circuit.

THE LETDOWN Hat Rin may have been the
epicenter of the beach-party scene in 1995, but
these days Ko Pha Ngan is as mainstream as
Starbucks coffee in Bangkok’s Siam Square. By
becoming an established tourist attraction, the
ABOVE Goa, a party hotspot with travelers since the 1960s
full moon parties have lost part of their mystery
and – some would say – their soul.
Goa’s Full beach, a clearing in the mangroves or a cluster GOING ANYWAY? Accommodations around
of beach huts. The music starts up, dancers begin
Hat Rin fill up days before each full moon
to swirl and the sound systems are set to throb till party, so arrive a few days early, or rent a moped
Moon Parties dawn. Fortunately, the beach is at hand for you to and stay at one of the more secluded beaches on
relax on the next day.
the north coast of the island. Hat Khuat and
The DJs at Goa’s full moon parties are masters
vs Ko Pha Ngan of Goa trance, one of India’s greatest contributions Hat Khom are two of the old favorites.
to the world of dance music. The genre can trace
its origins back to the early 1990s, when the trippy
For the ultimate old-school raves, dedicated
sounds of local DJs reached the ears of their big-
party-lovers make for India not Thailand name counterparts in Britain. But the trance
movement was simply building on the groundwork
of the hippies who’d dropped in and blissed out in
NEED TO KNOW
Goa in the 1960s. Along the coast you’ll still see
LOCATION Goa is on the veterans from the original “Summer of Love” raving
Malabar Coast of India, south $)*/"
of Mumbai 1",*45"/ with the crowds of young European, Israeli,
/&1"-
%FMIJ
WHEN Parties take place Russian, Japanese, and Indian partygoers.
regularly on full moons from Finding a full moon party is largely a process of ABOVE Crammed on to the beach, hundreds of ravers at an
October to March, and at Christmas */%*" ,PMLBUB all-night full moon party on Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand
and New Year things go into overdrive .VNCBJ trial and error. The day is easy enough to predict,
VISITORS PER YEAR (0" #BZ PG of course, but you’ll have to talk to likely-looking
About 2 million, but most people "SBCJBO #FOHBM people on the beach to discover the actual
go to Goa for the beaches, not the 4FB #BOHBMPSF
beach parties location. Nine times out of ten, though, you’ll end
up immersed in a sea of pumping bass, PRACTICAL INFORMATION
somewhere around Anjuna or Chapora. The
Getting There and Around Where to Stay
You can’t announce a party on a billboard and secrecy is partly out of necessity – the local police
Getting to Goa by air involves a Anjuna is the center of the trance
expect it to be a real party. The best ones take periodically make raids on the parties in search of charter flight to Dabolim airport scene and the best place to get
place at secret locations. Invitations go out by drug-dealers and drug-takers. But for many of Goa’s or a 1-hour flight from Mumbai. information about upcoming
word of mouth, and everybody in the place has to partygoers, being underground is part of the By train the journey from Mumbai parties. Ravers also head for
be united in pursuit of the same bacchanalian goal. appeal. After all, how much fun is a beach party takes 6–12 hours or 14 hours by Vagator, Chapora, and Arambol.
bus. Local buses and taxis run to One well-kept secret is Siolim
So it is with Goa’s famous full moon parties. You that has its own website?
Anjuna and other resorts along House (www.siolimhouse.com),
won’t find listings for them in the entertainment the Malabar Coast. near Chapora, a glorious 300-
section of the Goan Herald. These are proper raves,
Where to Eat year-old Portuguese mansion
in the old-school tradition. If your only experience Vendors selling chai (spiced tea), with a secluded pool. It’s well
of full moon parties is the touristy ones of omelettes, samosas, and water worth the splurge.
Thailand’s Ko Pha Ngan, prepare for the real deal. set up camp on party nights. The Daytime Temperatures
resorts are packed with restaurants
The venues for these hedonistic dance Oct: 88°F (31°C); Jan: 88°F
serving global traveler food, as (31°C); Mar: 90°F (32°C)
extravaganzas are kept secret until the last second. well as Goa’s signature curry:
News of the next party filters along the Malabar vindaloo made with pork, wine Budget per Day for Two
Coast, from Anjuna to Arambol, by phone, email, vinegar, and plenty of chilli. New Bank on US$220, including
accommodations at Siolim
and text message, moving from guest house to York-trained chef Saleem Agha
cooks up a treat at Sublime (tel. House, food, and moped rental.
Internet café to beach bar. Then, come nightfall, a
+91 982 248 4051), near the Website
convoy of mopeds and motorcycles sets out into flea market in Anjuna. www.goatourism.org
the steamy Indian night, to gather at a secluded ABOVE Hippies selling trinkets at the market in Anjuna, India

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