Page 76 - Off the Tourist Trail - 1000 Unexpected Travel Alternatives (Part 1 of 2)

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AND PARTIES

FESTIVALS Asti Palio

vs Siena Palio ABOVE A crush of spectators watching the race from behind
fences at the Siena palio
FORGET SIENA PALIO?

They’ve been racing thoroughbreds in Asti’s old town since 1275 – years THE BUILD-UP Everyone has heard of Siena’s
palio, and Tuscany is a long-established tourist
before the smaller palio of Siena was established destination. The Italian hill town is a medieval
jewel and famous for its fine wines and excellent
cuisine. With its central location, Siena is also
Siena runs its palio twice every summer, with ten an ideal starting point for visits to the rest of
NEED TO KNOW
horses participating at a time. At Asti, there’s much Tuscany – Pisa and Florence are both just an
LOCATION Asti is one of the more to see – each of the 21 neighborhoods and hour away and many of the nearby villages, such
major towns in the Piedmont 5VSJO .JMBO as San Gimignano and Monteriggione, are well
region of northwestern Italy 7FOJDF villages in and around Asti enters a horse dressed
"45* worth exploring.
WHEN The paliotakes 4JFOB in its own colors, and all 21 of them run in four
place each year on the third *5"-: races during a single day, thundering round the
weekend in September THE LETDOWN Unless you’ve been invited into
"ESJBUJD
3PNF 4FB tight corners of the track again and again. The one of the exclusive homes that overlook the
VISITORS PER YEAR
100,000 come on the day for /BQMFT three qualifying rounds lead up to the eagerly square where the race takes place, there is no
the street party, though only 5ZSSIFOJBO anticipated final, in which the top seven compete. seating at the palio. Most spectators have to
4FB
10,000 can fit into the piazza,
*POJBO The winner’s prize is the coveted palio (victory stand for hours in excruciating heat during the
so it’s advisable to book ahead 1BMFSNP 4FB
banner). The loser receives a meager anchovy two races, which take place in July and August.
as a consolation prize.
GOING ANYWAY? Prepare for the midday
Siena’s palio is the most celebrated festival in Italy Asti offers 5,000 standing places free, but if you
summer heat with sunscreen, a hat, and water.
and takes place each July and August. But why not want to watch the race in style, book numbered
Make the most of the festive atmosphere after
wait until September, when the tourist high season seats in one of the stalls that are specially erected
the race by joining in the raucous street parties.
is over, and enjoy the palio in Asti? With more races for the event. These are reasonably priced and are
and more horses, it offers a more sumptuous and easy to reserve online up to a year in advance. With
full day for spectators. It also has a dramatic and so much going on at Asti, you’ll be glad of the
colorful procession of over 1,000 flag-throwers comfort the stalls afford. The day is much busier
and characters in medieval dress. than in Siena, with more racing and more pageantry.
Both palios take place in large squares in the And as night falls, the fun really hots up. Join in the
medieval town centers, but the piazza in Asti is exuberant street parties or enjoy the celebrations
more challenging, owing to the tight curves of the in one of the local trattorias. After a long day at the
near-triangular track (the route in Siena is circular). races, you’ll be ready to try some of the excellent
Jockeys race bareback, with neither saddles nor local Barbera d’Asti, which connoisseurs believe to
stirrups, but only in Asti do they ride thoroughbreds, be one of Italy’s best red wines.
making the race even more nerve-racking –
less sturdy and more difficult to handle, the PRACTICAL INFORMATION
thoroughbred horses struggle to keep their footing
on the cobblestones of the piazza and the jockeys Getting There hotelristorantereale.it) in the
must employ greater skill in a race that’s faster. The nearest airport is Turin, about piazza where the palio takes
an hour by car or train from Asti. place. Accommodations are hard
Where to Eat to find on the weekend of the
Piedmont is foodie paradise. Try palio, so book well ahead.
some of the local truffles washed Budget per Day for Two
down with one of the region’s Around US$260 if you stay in a
fine wines. The area is better double at the Hotel Reale. For
known for risotto than pasta. those on a budget, try one of the
Tacabanda (tel. +39 0141 530 local agriturismos (farm stays).
999) is great for local specialties.
Daytime Temperature
Where to Stay
There are hotels of all categories 73°F (23°C) in September.
in Asti, the most famous of Website
which is Hotel Reale (www. www.comune.asti.it
ABOVE Asti wine cellar full of robust red wines, among them Barbera d’Asti

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