Page 176 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

174 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Clifden
Co Galway
Situated on a hillside between the Twelve Bens mountain range
and the Atlantic, and nestling at the head of a broad bay, Clifden
(An Clochán) is blessed with a wonderful setting. Compact and
picturesque, it is Connemara’s largest town and effectively its capital.
It was founded in the early 19th century by John D’Arcy, a Galway
sheriff, and still retains much of its Georgian architecture. Boasting a
healthy number of good restaurants, pubs and shops, and a bustling
atmosphere, this vibrant town deserves more than a cursory glance.
A one-hour walking tour Return by the same route until
Begin the walk at the Tourist Office reaching a right turn down Church
1. Turn uphill on Galway Road and Street to Main St and Market Square.
then right into Westport Road and Mullarkey’s Bar 6, at the back of
right again, where Clifden’s Catholic Foyle’s on the square, often has
Church of St Joseph 2 can be seen. evening open mic sessions with an
It is from the site of this church that eclectic range of music, from Irish
Above Clifden, nestled below the imposing Clifden derives its name, built as it traditional to modern folk. From
Twelve Bens range was upon the site of an early Market Square, follow Beach Road
Christian monastic beehive hut or down to the pretty Harbour 7 –
VISITING CLIFDEN
cloghan. Turn left up Church Hill and, one of Ireland’s safest. Look back for
Parking a little further up on the left, the a good view of the town and its twin
There is a free public car park Protestant Christ Church 3, built in spires. Return to Market Square and
immediately behind the Tourist Office. 1820, holds a silver replica of the turn right down Market Street, lined
Tourist Information Cross of Cong (see p179) and has with interesting shops, restaurants,
Galway Road; 095 21163; www. better views than St Joseph’s. Carry bars and pubs including Lowry’s 8,
connemara.net; open Mar–Oct: Mon–Sat on along Church Hill, which another great place to catch a live
Shopping becomes the beginning of the Sky music session. Turn left into Bridge
Whitethorn Gallery on Galway Road Road 4. From this vantage point Street and then right back into
showcases local artists. O’Dalaigh visitors can look down and fully Galway Road. Next to the Tourist Office,
Jewellers on Main Street (www. appreciate Clifden’s majestic setting, don’t miss the Station House Museum
celticimpressions.com) sells Celtic-
inspired jewellery. Millars on Main with the lofty spires of its churches 9 (open May–Oct: Mon–Sat) whose
Street stocks Irish fashion designers. elegantly set against the looming exhibitions tell the tale of aviators
presence of the Twelve Bens. Alcock and Brown – who ended their
VISITING INISHBOFIN ISLAND Continue on Sky Road past the transatlantic flight near here in 1919 –
Abbeyglen Castle. A path to the left and the Connemara pony.
Inishbofin Island Discovery makes
the 30-minute crossing from Cleggan is the start of a steep, 15-minute ª From the tourist office car park,
at least once daily all year (095 45819; climb up to the D’Arcy Monument turn right up Wesport Road, left up
www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com). 5, which offers spectacular views. Church Hill and follow Sky Road signs.
WHERE TO STAY IN CLIFDEN
Below View across the green countryside of the Sky Road towards Cleggan
Foyle’s Hotel inexpensive
Old-fashioned, quirky hotel run by the
Foyle family for generations. Attached is
Marconi’s seafood restaurant.
Main St; 095 21801;
www.foyleshotel.com
Abbeyglen Castle Hotel moderate
A 10-minute walk from the centre of
town. Views over the Bay and Twelve
Bens Mountains and gourmet dining
at the hotel restaurant.
Sky Road; 095 21201; www.abbeyglen.ie
The Quay House moderate
A charming, award-winning guest-
house with views across the water.
Once the harbour master’s residence,
this is the oldest building in Clifden.
Clifden Harbour; 095 21369;
www.thequayhouse.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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