Page 177 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 17: Connemara and its Loughs 175

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C H U RC H H I LL Church of
St Joseph
Christ
Church Tourist
GALWAY RD Office
S K Y R O A D
Mullarkey’s Bar
MARKET Lowry’s Station
House
SQUARE MAI N S T B R I D G E S T R E E T Museum
B E ACH R O A D MA R K E T S T R E E T
D‘Arcy
Monument
Harbour
Above Ferry to Inishbofin Island from Cleggan
2 Sky Road eye on the time, though, in order not Harbour near Claddaghduff
Co Galway to misjudge the tide, which would
A rollercoaster of a drive skirting the mean an enforced wait of six hours.
northern flank of Streamstown Bay, ª From Claddaghduff it is a 1-km (half-
at its summit the Sky Road reaches mile) drive north to Cleggan Harbour for
a height of 152 m (500 ft), affording ferries to Inishbofin Island.
breathtaking sea views across the
islands of Turbot and Inishturk. 4 Inishbofin Island EAT AND DRINK
At the top there is a lay-by ideal for Co Galway
pausing to take in the sweeping Inishbofin is a small island with cliffs CLIFDEN
views. Follow the road back to and sandy beaches, blessed with Cullens Café Bistro inexpensive
the N59 and turn left, crystal-clear waters great Simple dishes prepared extremely
then take the next left, for swimming, snorkelling well. This is a lovely restaurant with a
cosy, welcoming ambience, offering
signposted Claddaghduff. and excellent shore angling. very good value.
Having safely descended At the island’s centre is Market Street
again to sea level at this peaceful Lough Boffin, home Connemara Hamper moderate
little village, there may be to a range of wading and This deli is perfect when stocking up
time to unwind with a migrant birds; on its western for a picnic, with a superb range of
drink while waiting for the side are rocky outcrops cheeses and cold meats. It specializes
tide to recede, making it known as “The Stags”, with in local produce such as Connemara
smoked salmon and artisan chocolates.
possible to cross the impressive sea stacks and Main Street, Clifden; 095 21054; closed
causeway to Omey Island. blow-holes. Sun; www.connemarahamper.com
ª Drive across the short, Roller coaster Inishbofin (“island of the Mitchell’s Restaurant moderate
sandy causeway via Star of Sky Road white cow”) is also a centre Clifden’s premier eating-place; a great
the Sea Church at low tide, for traditional Irish music. As dining experience with beautifully
following the markers with great care. well as having its own famous ceilidh presented food. The menu is especially
band, the island plays host to visiting strong on seafood dishes. Good value
3 Omey Island musicians and artists. The shell of a lunchtime menu.
Market Street; 095 21867;
Co Galway 14th-century chapel – the last vestiges www.mitchellsrestaurantclifden.com
For one day each year, in August, this of a monastic settlement established
peaceful spot becomes the centre of by St Colman in the 7th century – and AROUND INISHBOFIN ISLAND
attention, for the Omey Races, and the remains of a Cromwellian barracks, Oliver’s on Cleggan Pier
the beach makes a spectacular used to house captured Catholic inexpensive–moderate
Overlooking the harbour in Cleggan,
setting for a horse race. The rest of clergy from all over the country, can Oliver’s is a handy spot for a quick bite
the year, the most important site is a be visited too. Near the pier is the while waiting for the ferry to Inishbofin.
6th-century monastic graveyard and small but interesting Heritage Museum, Unsurprisingly, it specializes in fish and
a holy well and chapel dedicated to dedicated to island history and life. seafood – particularly flatfish,
St Fechin. In the centre of the island ª From Cleggan, drive southeast Connemara smoked salmon and
Cleggan scallops. The bar serves local
is the reedy Fahy Lough, around on the R379 to the N59. Turn left onto oysters. Also has six ensuite rooms.
which there are good walking and the N59 to Letterfrack for access to the Cleggan Harbour; 095 44640;
birdwatching opportunities. Keep an Connemara National Park. www.oliversonclegganspier.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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