Page 181 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland
P. 181

DRIVE 17: Connemara and its Loughs  179


       r Lough Corrib
       Co Mayo and Co Galway
       The largest lake in the Republic of
       Ireland, Lough Corrib is reputed to
       have an island for every day of the
       year. One of the largest is Inchagoil,
       which has an important monastic
       settlement (see p186). Many are
       wooded, and the dawn chorus in
       early spring on Lough Corrib is a
       spectacular natural event.
        From Maum to Clonbur there are
       almost uninterrupted views of this
       beautiful, island-studded lake. There
       is a viewing point just before
       Cornamona (Corr Na Mona). From                   Above Magnificent mountain scenery
       here it is possible to make a detour   t Cong    between Loughs Mask and Nafooey
       onto a tiny peninsula that affords   Co Mayo
       closer views of the Isle of Inchagoil.   Cong was the location for John Ford’s   EAT AND DRINK
       Clonbur (An Fhaírche) is a picturesque  1951 film The Quiet Man, starring John
       village on the broad neck of land   Wayne. Movie buffs should head for the   LOUGHS MASK AND NAFOOEY
       between Loughs Mask and Corrib.   Quiet Man Museum (open Easter–mid-  Maire Lukes inexpensive
       There are forest and lakeside walks    Oct daily). Nearby, ruined Cong Abbey   From the garden at the rear of this
       in the vicinity and Clonbur Woods   was founded in the 7th century and   landmark pub there are sweeping
       are renowned for the variety of   rebuilt in the 12th and 13th by the last   views of Lough Mask. It serves good
                                                        light lunches, and helpful staff are
       butterflies found there.       kings of Connaught:   knowledgeable about the area.
       The upper-floor balcony        Turlough, Rory and Cathal   Toormakeady, Lough Mask; 094 954
       of Burke’s pub-restaurant      O’Connor. The splendid,   4080
       has great views of             ornamented 12th-century   LOUGH CORRIB
       Mount Gable and the            Cross of Cong once   Burke’s inexpensive
       landscape. Its owners          resided here (it is now in   This family-run pub and restaurant
       also provide maps and          the National Museum of   offers wonderful views of Mount Gable
       advice on local walking        Ireland in Dublin, see p150).   as well as a good variety of meat and
       trails. One is to the top      Behind the abbey, a path   fish dishes for hungry walkers.
       of Mount Gable, from           leads to Ashford Castle,   Clonbur; 094 954 6175;
                                                        www.burkes-clonbur.com
       where the whole of             once the home of Arthur
       Connemara is spread            Guinness, founder of the   CONG
       out below. It is a 3-hour   Cong Abbey’s 12th-century   Guinness stout brewery   Hungry Monk Café inexpensive
       return trek, but it is also   arched doorway  in 1756, and now one of   A great place to indulge in freshly
       possible to drive to           Ireland’s most luxurious   ground coffee and home-made
       within 40 minutes’ walk of    hotels. Take tea here to enjoy the   desserts and cakes.
                                                        Abbey Street, Cong; 094 954 5842;
       the summit (ask at Burke’s).  lovely ornamental gardens that sweep   www.hungrymonkcong.com;
       ª Take the R346 east to Cong.   down to the shores of Lough Corrib.   closed Sun
        DAY TRIP OPTIONS       History trail          Connemara’s lakelands
        Clifden, Killary Harbour and Cong    From lovely Killary Harbour 7, the   From either Clonbur or Cong t four
        are all good bases from which to   spectacular, steep and winding route  lovely loughs – Carra, Mask, Nafooey
        explore the coastline, history and   over Bengorm Pass leads to poignant   w and Corrib r – can be linked in
        loughs of Connemara.   Delphi Valley 8 and Doolough 9,   a delightful day’s driving tour that
                                                      also runs through Irish-speaking
        Island life            the site of a moving monument to   Joyce Country around Maum e.
        From picturesque Clifden 1 take the   Ireland’s tragic Famine Trail.
        lovely drive out on the Sky Road 2   Follow the drive instructions over the   Head north to Barna, Ballinchalla and
        to Cleggan for the ferry to Inishbofin   pass and through the valley along the   Ballinrobe, then turn left onto the N84
        Island 4, where traditional Irish   lough, continuing to the end of the   to the shores of Lough Carra. Continue
                                                      on the N84 up to Partry, then turn left
        music and crafts are still a way of life.  descent from Tawnyard Pass 0. When   onto the R300 to Srah, and from there
        Follow the drive instructions out to   the road reaches the N59, turn right to   follow the drive instructions back to
        Cleggan for the ferry to the island.  return to Killary Harbour/Leenane.  Clonbur or Cong.

                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


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