Page 180 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

178 BACK ROADS IRELAND

q Ballintubber Abbey marks the start of the Gaeltacht.
Co Mayo From here, the road veers away from
Founded in 1216 by Cathal O’Conner, the lough and climbs upwards. Stop
the King of Connaught, Ballintubber and look back for a fabulous view.
Abbey (open daily) is often spoken of Soon the road dips down into the
as “the abbey that refused to die”. valley of Lough Nafooey. At the end
Remarkably, it is the only church in of the lough is a secluded, sandy
Ireland where, for coming up to beach, from where long-abandoned
800 years, Mass has been celebrated cultivation ridges called “lazy beds”,
without a break and today is still a used for growing potatoes until the
place of daily worship. Famine of 1845–51, can be seen.
An audiovisual display takes visitors ª Follow the road up over Al Dubh
on a journey through Cromwellian Pass to join the R336, turning left
burnings, religious persecution, and towards Maum.
the actitivies of the notorious “priest
hunter” Sean na Sagart (“John of the The Galway Gaeltacht
Priests”) who is actually buried in the The Gaeltacht are regions where
graveyard. His body was laid facing the Irish language still holds sway.
north instead of the usual practice of They are found mainly in the more
burying the dead facing the rising remote communities of western
sun. Every year, hundreds of people Ireland. The Galway Gaeltacht in
Connemara is the most extensive
Above One of the many little islands that dot walk Tochar Phadraig (“Pilgrim’s Path”) in Ireland, and even the road signs
the tranquil surface of Lough Corrib from the abbey to Croagh Patrick, here may be in Irish only. The
and up to the summit of the holy government actively supports and
mountain (see p195). promotes its continued use, and
ª Join the N84 at Ballintubber and schoolchildren from other areas
drive south towards Partry. Turn right often holiday in the Gaeltacht to
improve their Irish.
onto the R330 (signposted Lough
Mask Drive) and then left for the tiny
hamlet of Srah (An tSraith). Veer left e Maum (An Mám)
and follow the road that hugs the Co Galway
WHERE TO STAY northern shore of Lough Mask. The Irish-speaking area around
Maum is known for the venerable
AROUND BALLINTUBBER ABBEY w Loughs Mask and Nafooey local Joyce family – it is often referred
Moher House inexpensive Co Mayo to as “Joyce Country”. The village itself
This homely bed and breakfast is in Lough Mask is a vast limestone lake, makes a pleasant stop, with Keane’s,
the capable hands of owner Marian etched by rain and river water out of an ivy-clad pub, opposite the small
O’Malley, who ensures all guests are
given a warm welcome. Open peat the porous rock, and one of the best bridge spanning the River Joyce.
fires and views of Croagh Patrick and spots in Ireland for brown-trout From the bridge there are fine views
Moher Lake add to the friendly, open angling. For almost its whole length of the Maumturk Mountains.
ambience. Wide choice of breakfasts, the road hugs the shoreline, offering ª Continue east, taking the R345
and evening meals by arrangement.
Near village of Drummin on the main lovely lake vistas. The little town of along Lough Corrib towards Clonbur
Leenane–Westport Road (N59); 098 Tourmakeady (Tuar Mhic Éadaigh) and Cong.
21360; www.moherhousewestport.com;
closed Nov–Feb Below Regional architecture of a stone farmhouse on Lough Mask
LOUGH CORRIB
Fairhill House Hotel moderate
This refurbished Victorian hotel offers
simple but very comfortable country-
style accommodation.
Main Street, Clonbur; 094 954 6176;
www.fairhillhouse.com
CONG
Ashford Castle Hotel
moderate–expensive
For those who want a truly memorable
stay, this charming and dignified hotel
is one of Ireland’s plushest addresses.
Regularly hosting dignitaries, it even
has its own falconry school.
095 9544 6003; www.ashford.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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