Page 179 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 17: Connemara and its Loughs 177

the village, to the left, as the N59
slopes down towards it. There are
several off-road viewpoints for
exhilarating panoramas of the glacial
valley and, on the opposite shore, the
vertiginous dark slopes of Mweelrea
mountain plunging into the blue
waters. From Leenane, a 90-minute
cruise sails the length of the 14-km
(9-mile) fjord, offering excellent
views. As the waters of the harbour
are exceptionally calm, it is rare for
passengers to suffer seasickness.
ª Head northeast on the N59. At Above View over the surrounding hills from the
Aasleagh turn left onto the R335, Nestled in the midst of the Murrisk Tawnyard Pass
through the Doolough Pass between Mountains, its enigmatic beauty is
the Sheeffry Hills and Mweelrea to the further enhanced by the total peace
Delphi Valley. and solitude of its setting. Even in
high summer, visitors are few. At the
8 Delphi Valley far end of the lake, the small stone
Co Mayo Famine Walk Memorial, inscribed
The Delphi Valley was given its name with a quote from Bishop Desmond
by the Marquis of Sligo who, on his Tutu, is on the right. The view back
return from Delphi in Greece in the across the lake and the surrounding
1830s, built his country hills is sublime. For some,
home, Delphi Lodge, on the terrible event that
the shores of beautiful took place in this valley
Lough Finny, opposite in March 1849 to this day
the lower slopes of reverberates in its
Mweelrea. It is said that sombre beauty.
the Grecian landscape ª Retrace the route
reminded him so much back to the Delphi side
of home that he pined of the lake. At the first
for this corner of Mayo. junction, turn left up the
ª Follow the R335 hill, signed Liscarney and
to Doolough and the Traditional local Drummin, to reach the
Famine Walk Memorial. road signs Tawnyard Pass.
The Famine Walk 0 Tawnyard Pass
During the Great Famine in Ireland Co Mayo
(1845–51) a million people died This mountain road cuts through a
and a further million emigrated. In remote forested area of the Sheefry.
March 1849, hundreds of starving Park at the sign for Tawnyard Forests EAT AND DRINK IN KILLARY
people walked over the Doolough for superb views over Tawnyard HARBOUR AND LEENANE
Pass from Louisburg to Delphi
House, where a party of famine Lough and its surrounding hills as Gaynor’s inexpensive
relief commissioners were staying, well as the Ben Gorm and Mweelrea This pub’s claim to fame is that many
hoping to get food for their families. mountains. A walking trail leads scenes in Jim Sheridan’s movie The
They were made to wait overnight down to the lough. Once it has Field, starring Richard Harris, were shot
in harsh conditions before being reached the head of the pass, the here. It’s a very popular and friendly
turned away. Around 400 people road hairpins down to a stone bridge place, serving a good range of food,
died on the trek back. A memorial well prepared. They will also make up
stone on the shores of Doolough and levels out on the flatter, fertile a packed lunch on request.
commemorates the tragedy. plains of South Mayo. At the start of Leenane, 095 42261
this descent is a small lay-by where, Blackberry Cafe moderate
on a clear day, the peak of Croagh This family-run restaurant serves
9 Doolough Patrick, Ireland’s holiest mountain, reliably good food and takes pride in
Co Mayo can be seen (see p195). all its dishes being freshly cooked.
Beyond the Delphi Valley, the road ª Stay on this road as far as the Delicious home-made soups and
chowders, fish cakes and mussels.
skirts the lake of Doolough (“Black junction with the R330, turning right Leenane, 095 42240;
Lake” in Irish), reputed to be the onto it. At Killavally, turn left for www.blackberryrestaurant.ie;
second deepest lake in Ireland. Ballintubber Abbey. closed Oct–Mar
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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