Page 187 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 18: Connemara’s Coast 185

Lynch’s Window 9,
0 metres 250 EAT AND DRINK IN GALWAY
carved with a skull
and crossbones, Corrib House Tea Rooms &
0 yards
250
ST VINCE NT ’S AVE from which James Guesthouse inexpensive
Salmon Weir Lynch, nobleman This charmingly restored Georgian
Bridge ST FRANCIS ST EYRE STREET and mayor, reputedly townhouse with views over the river
Eyre hanged his own son, offers breakfast and lunch, as well as
Cathedral Square teas and coffees. The weekend
of St Nicholas Lynch, for
Nicholas MARY ST EGLINTON ST murdering a Spanish brunches are superb.
3 Waterside, Woodquay; 091 446 753;
River Corrib
BOWLING GREEN WILLIAM ST jealousy. The official
Fishery UPPER ABBEYGATE ST guest in a pique of www.corribhouse.com
Lynch’s
Walk Window Lynch's Castle executioner had Goya’s inexpensive
Great place for coffee and cakes.
LOMBARD ST the deed, no doubt
M E R C H A N T S R O A D
2–3 Kirwan’s Lane; 091 567 010;
Nora Barnacle SHOP ST refused to carry out Vibrant and friendly atmosphere.
House Collegiate Church LOWER ABBEYGATE ST heeding the people’s www.goyas.ie; closed Sun
of St Nicholas
HIGH ST MIDDLE ST ST AUGUSTINE ST pleas for clemency. McDonaghs Seafood House
inexpensive
Galwegians claim
BRIDGE ST CROSS ST
QUAY ST Dillon’s Jewellers Q U E E N S T R E E T this event gave Busy eatery on Quay Street. Famed for
its chowders – the measure of a good
FLO OD ST rise to the term restaurant on the western seaboard –
Wolfe Tone NEW DOCK ‘“lynching”. From it is everything from a take-away fish
Bridge SPANISH
STREET
here return to the bar to a boulevard seafood café.
Spanish 22 Quay St; 091 565 001;
PARADE
Arch Galway City main drag of Shop
Museum Street and turn left www.mcdonaghs.net
back to Eyre Square. Tigh Neachtain inexpensive
ª Leaving Galway, A landmark pub, reputed to be
Galway’s oldest (the interior has
and beyond that the spires of Galway cross Wolfe Tone Bridge and follow barely changed since 1890). Open
University, which has an 1849 Gothic the signs for Salthill, a resort suburb fires create a warm, inviting
Revival quad. In summer, look out for 1 km (half a mile) southwest. With atmosphere, and there are often
salmon ascending to their Galway Bay on the left, follow the impromptu music sessions.
spawning grounds upstream. promenade. Just before the Quay St; 091 568 820;
www.tighneachtain.com
At Waterside, the River Black Rock diving board,
Corrib, opens out into turn right at a mini Ard Bia moderate
Lough Corrib – the roundabout. Drive up Top-drawer cooking and great
atmosphere. Popular with local
largest lake in the the hill and through a foodies. Particular favourites are the
Republic of Ireland. series of roundabouts, Galway mussels and haddock
Beyond the weir are Traditional Claddagh eventually descending chowder. More informal dining
the remaining stanchions wedding ring to the N59. Turn left here available downstairs in the daytime.
of the Galway–Clifden onto it. After 10 km Spanish Arch; 091 561 114;
www.ardbia.com
railway bridge. (6 miles), turn right to the Connemara
Just past a slipway on Waterside, Marble Visitor Centre in Moycullen. Below A currach, or traditional sailing
turn right down St Francis Street and boat, in Galway City Museum
walk back towards the centre. At the The Claddagh Ring
junction with Eglinton Street, turn
right and follow Mary Street into A traditional wedding ring featuring
two hands holding a heart with a
Bowling Green. Here is Nora Barnacle crown on top, the Claddagh ring
House (open summer for guided tours) takes its name from the oldest
7, the family home of Nora Barnacle, fishing village in Galway, on the
muse and long-suffering spouse of west bank of the River Corrib. It is
the writer James Joyce, who visited said to have been designed in the
Nora here. Now a museum, it houses 1730s by goldsmith Richard Joyce,
who presented it to William III as a
Joycean memorabilia and holds mark of gratitude for securing his
readings of Joyce’s work. release from Moorish pirates. If
Around the corner, on Lombard the heart on the ring is pointing
Street, is the Collegiate Church of towards the body, it means the
St Nicholas 8. Founded in 1320, it wearer’s heart is taken; if it points
is the largest functioning medieval outwards, the heart is open.
Internationally famous, the
church in Ireland. Legend has it that Claddagh ring has been worn by
Christopher Columbus prayed here such diverse figures as John Wayne
prior to his voyage to the New World. and Queen Victoria.
Behind the church, in Church Lane, is
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50
184-189_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 185 11/09/17 12:30 pm