Page 188 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

186 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Above Fishing boat on lovely Lough Corrib
Above right Brigit’s Celtic-inspired garden 2 Connemara Marble In spring, when the mayflies hatch,
Visitor Centre Oughterard becomes a magnet for
Moycullen, Co Galway trout fishermen. The best way to see
WHERE TO STAY Connemara is famous for its marble. the lake is to take a boat trip with
AROUND OUGHTERARD Sometimes referred to as Irish jade, Corrib Cruises, who operate boats
year-round (www.corribcruises.com).
it is valued for its subtle shades of
Camillaun Lodge and Angling
Centre inexpensive green, the result of large copper The boat drops passengers on
Family-run guesthouse on the banks deposits in the area. The process beautiful Inchagoill Island, the site
of the River Owenriff, with direct of turning it into jewellery, ashtrays of a ruined monastery and
access to Lough Corrib. Facilities and chess sets can be seen at the Romanesque church.
include a garden hot tub. Connemara Marble Visitor Centre For information on fishing, call by
Oughterard (turn right down Camp
Street at the Boat Inn); 091 552 678; (open May–Oct: daily; Nov–Apr: Mon–Fri). Thomas Tuck’s tackle shop on Main
www.camillaun.com; closed Nov–Jan Items can be bought in the showroom. Street. Next door is the Yew Tree
ª Take Chapel Road out of Moycullen Bakery and Café, a good place to
Currarevagh House moderate
Country house from 1842, set in and turn right onto the N59 towards stock up for a picnic.
beautiful woodland. Good restaurant Oughterard. After 7 km (4 miles), turn ª From Oughterard, continue north
(open to non-residents for dinner). right at a sign pointing to Brigit’s along the N59, and turn right onto the
Oughterard (7 km/4 miles outside the Garden (2 km/1 mile off the N59). R336 at Maam Cross.
town on the Glann road); 091 552 312;
www.currarevagh.com; closed Nov–Feb
3 Brigit’s Garden 5 Maam Valley
AROUND INAGH VALLEY Rosscahill, Co Galway Co Galway
Ballynahinch Castle Hotel expensive This is a contemporary garden (open This scenic drive along the R336
Sumptuous 4-star hotel in extensive mid-Feb–Sep) dedicated to the four through the Maam Valley is an
woodland. Lunch is available to non- seasonal Celtic festivals. Cynics might opportunity to enjoy the splendours
residents in the bar.
Recess (on the R341 to Toombeola); 095 find it a bit new-agey but there is a of Connemara in relative isolation.
31006; www.ballynahinch-castle.com real sense of wonderment here and The blanket bog (thinner and flatter
children generally love it. The large than the raised bog of the Midlands)
Lough Inagh Lodge expensive
This former hunting lodge with a grounds feature sculptures, standing imbues the area with a desolate
lakeside setting is a perfect retreat. stones, ring forts, nature trails and beauty, and if the light is right the
Recess (on the R344 towards Leenane pools, and the excellent café uses vivid yellow gorse and pale green
and Letterfrack); 095 34706; produce from the garden. Particularly reeds yield a rich palette of colours. It
www.loughinaghlodgehotel.ie;
closed mid-Dec–mid-Mar attractive are the ancient woodland is worth stopping the car for a closer
and wild flower meadows. look and a walk. Eventually the road
AROUND DERRIGIMLAGH BOG ª Return to the N59, turn right and skirts the billowing curves of the
Ardagh Hotel moderate continue northwest to Oughterard Maumturk Mountains and enters the
Family-run hotel overlooking Ardbear (7 km/4 miles). There is a large car park village of Leenane. Follow the road
Bay. The restaurant specializes in on the right on the way into town. uphill onto the N59 west to Clifden.
locally caught seafood. Look out for splendid views of Killary
Ballyconneely Rd, Clifden (just south of
town); 095 21384; www.ardaghhotel.com 4 Oughterard Harbour (see pp176–7) on the right.
Co Galway ª Continue on the N59 towards
ROUNDSTONE The gateway to Connemara, this is a Clifden. Just before Kylemore Abbey
St Josephs B&B inexpensive lively town and an important angling turn left onto the R344, signposted
Cosy and welcoming with good centre. Its main attraction is Lough Recess (Sraith Salach; 16 km/10 miles)
breakfasts, in the heart of the village.
Roundstone; 095 35865; Corrib, Ireland’s second largest lake, The signpost is tucked in tight on a
www.roundstonebandb.com 2 km (1 mile) north of the town itself. sharp corner, so be careful not to miss it.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
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