Page 189 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 18: Connemara’s Coast 187

6 Inagh Valley ª Return to the R341 and cut straight
Co Galway across onto a narrow well-paved road.
This stretch of the route passes Drive up the hill and pull into the car
through one of the most scenic park (1 km/half a mile). Below is the
valleys in Connemara, with broad official Alcock and Brown Monument.
swaths of blanket bogland on There are also wonderful views across
either side of the road. It eventually the broad sweep of Mannin Bay.
squeezes through the Maumturk Return to the R341, turn right,
and Twelve Bens mountains. There following the signs for Ballyconneely
are wonderful views of Lough Inagh and Roundstone.
to the right.
ª Regaining the N59, turn right and 8 Roundstone
drive into Clifden (21 km/13 miles). Co Galway
Entering Clifden (see p174), turn left Eventually the coast road loops
onto the R341 coast road, signposted around to Roundstone (Cloch na
Ballinaboy and Ballyconneely. In Ron – “Seal Rock”). Perched high above
Ballinaboy, ignore the left turn for the fishing harbour and looking out
Toombeola and instead take the next across island-studded Bertraghboy Above A Connemara pony, a sturdy breed
left, a narrow road leading through Bay, this is the most picturesque suited to the rugged landscape
Derrigimlagh Bog for 2 km (1 mile) village on the Connemara coast. In
and ending in a cul de sac. the distance, framing the expanse EAT AND DRINK
of water, are the Twelve Bens and
Maumturks; behind the village, OUGHTERARD
Errisbeg (300 m/984 ft), a 2-hour hike Breathnach’s Bar inexpensive
(follow the road past O’Dowd’s pub), Country pub with good home
cooking and live music sessions.
affords some of the finest views in Camp St; 091 552 2818;
all Connemara. www.breathnachs.com
Culturally vibrant, Roundstone has
become a magnet for craftsmen and AROUND DERRIGIMLAGH BOG
artists, and in summer holds a regatta Keoghs Bar moderate
of traditional Galway hookers. It Popular family-run bar/restaurant.
Wide range of dishes from sirloin steak
also has a couple of good bars and to warm crab claws with lemon butter.
restaurants, including O’Dowd’s On the R341 south of Clifden.
(see right). Three kilometres (2 miles) Ballyconneely; 095 23522
southwest of town, off the R341, ROUNDSTONE
the beautiful white sandy coves of O’Dowd’s inexpensive–moderate
Gorteen Bay and Dog’s Bay, lie back- In business since 1906, this
to-back on a headland. harbourfront pub has superb food,
ª Follow the R341 coastal road to wood-panelled walls and open fires.
Above The pretty fishing village of Toombeola (7 km/4 miles) and turn Harbour; 095 35809;
www.odowdsseafoodbar.com
Roundstone, clustered around its harbour right onto the R342. Continue past
Cashel and take the first right onto the
7 Derrigimlagh Bog R340, signposted Glinsce and Carna, Below Gorteen Bay, one of two idyllic
Co Galway skirting Bertraghboy Bay. beaches near Roundstone
This area of bogland on the western
fringes of Europe was once at the
forefront of modern technology,
for it is the site of the world’s first
transatlantic radio station, built by
Guglielmo Marconi and opened with
a staff of 150 in 1907. The concrete
block and rusty chain by the small
lough at the end of the road are the
remains. Nearby, a white cairn marks
another historic event. On 15 June
1919 John Alcock and Arthur
Whitten Brown crash-landed their
Vickers Vimy bomber biplane here
after completing the first non-stop
flight across the Atlantic.

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