Page 191 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 18: Connemara’s Coast 189

Above left Looking over the cliff edge at Dun
well as farming and fishing methods, pre-Christian fort, and Synge’s Aengus, Inishmore Above centre A jaunting
persist. The playwright J M Synge Cottage, where the playwright car on the Aran Islands Above right
(1871–1909) put the islands on the stayed during his time here. Kilmurvey Beach, Inishmore
map with the publication of Playboy of Sights on the smallest of the three
the Western World in 1907. A fraught islands, Inisheer, include the ruined
tale of love and murder, it was inspired Church of St Gobnait and the 15th-
by time he spent on Inishmaan. century O’Brien’s Castle.
The largest island, Inishmore is the ª From Rossaveel, continue along VISITING THE ARAN ISLANDS
(OILEÁIN ARANN)
most visited. Boats arrive at Kilronan the R336 to Spiddal.
(Cill Rónáin), where bicycles can be Tourist Information
hired and jaunting cars (pony and Aran Sweaters For information on accommodation,
traps) wait to give island tours. The These thick woollen jumpers with which is very limited and needs to be
Aran Heritage Centre (Apr–Oct) in elaborate patterns on the front are booked, contact the tourist board.
Kilronan; 099 61263; open daily
Kilronan is worth a visit. traditionally worn by Aran Island
Inishmore’s main attraction is Dun fishermen. Knitted from unscoured Aran Heritage Centre
Aengus (Dun Aonghasa), an Iron Age wool that retains its natural lanolin, Kilronan; 099 61355;
www.visitaranislands.com;
they protected the fishermen from
promontory fort, thrillingly located the worst of the elements. Each open Apr–Oct
on the edge of soaring granite cliffs. pattern was unique to a family or Aran Island Ferries
It has four concentric stone walls and village, and would help identify the Aran Island Ferries operates a year-
is protected by a chevaux de frise, a wearer in case of a fatality at sea. round passenger service to the Aran
ring of razor-sharp stone stakes. Islands (cars are not allowed), with
Further along the coast, Dún several boats a day. The crossing takes
Duchathair, known as the Black w Spiddal (An Spidéal) about 40 minutes.
4 Forster St, Galway (main office);
Fort, has dry-stone ramparts. Co Galway Rossaveel (ferry terminal); 091 568 903;
Other sights include Teampall This long coastal village marks the www.aranislandferries.com
Chiaráin, a ruined 12th-century end of the Gaeltacht region. It has
church with striking doorways, and a Blue Flag beach (Silver Strand),
Na Seacht d’Teampaill, the “Seven and curragh races along the shore EAT AND DRINK ON THE ARAN
Churches”, a monastery built in summer. Next to the beach, the ISLANDS (OILEÁIN ARANN)
between the 9th and 15th centuries. Spiddal Craft Village (open year-round),
Inishmaan is the chief bastion of a complex of small craft studios, Joe Watty’s inexpensive
Lively music pub with a lovely, shaded
Aran culture and is much quieter sells high quality textiles, musical beer garden and good food too.
than the other islands. Among its instruments, ceramics, jewellery Kironan, Inishmore; 086 049 4509;
main sights are Dún Chonchúir, a and leatherwork. www.joewattys.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS of Ireland, including the N6 (linking Celtic Eden
Spend a day in Galway, drive around with M4 from Dublin and N18 from Take a ferry to the Aran Islands q.
island-studded Betraghboy Bay or Shannon) and the N17 from the north. At 13 km (8 miles) long and 3 km
escape to the Aran Islands. (2 miles) wide, Inishmore is easy to
Island-studded Betraghboy Bay explore by bike or jaunting car.
Vibrant Galway Stroll around the picturesque village
Galway 1 is a great place to spend of Roundstone 8, then head for Rossaveel is 32 km (20 miles) west
a day. Stroll on the waterfront, visit rugged Betraghboy Bay 9 to of Galway along the R336/R372.
Nora Barnacle’s House and sample experience the outstanding beauty The ferry companies operate
some of Ireland’s best pubs. of coastal Connemara. shuttle buses between Galway
and Rossaveel to coincide with
Galway is easily reached from the rest Follow the drive instructions.
ferry crossings.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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