Page 190 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

188 BACK ROADS IRELAND

9 Bertraghboy Bay unfree shall never be at peace”
Co Galway became the rallying cry for many
Rugged and windswept, and littered Irish patriots. The cottage contains
with tiny islands, Betraghboy Bay is mementos of Pearse’s life.
breathtakingly beautiful. On the far While here, it is worth exploring
side of the bay is Carna, an important the Rosmuck Peninsula on foot to
lobster fishing centre, from where it appreciate the fabulous setting.
is a short hop of 5 km (3 miles) to ª Drive back to the R340 and
Mweenish (Maoinis), an island linked continue east. Around 5 km (3 miles)
by bridge to the mainland and with past Glencoh turn right onto the R336
beautiful sandy beaches. Due west for Rossaveel (signposted Rós an
of Maoinis is isolated St Mac Dara’s Mhíl), the main port for the Aran
Island (Oileán Mhic Dara), one of the Islands. Cars cannot be taken onto
many uninhabited islands in this the islands, so park in the port.
area. It has the remains of a church
and the bed (grave) of St Mac Dara.
Above Pearse’s Cottage, the summer home of The island is so sacred that fishermen
the revolutionary Pádraig Pearse used to dip their sails three times as
a mark of respect when passing.
ª From Carna turn right onto the
coastal R340 and follow it around the
headland, with views of Kilkieran Bay
on the right. Pass through the village
of Kilkieran and just before Glinn
WHERE TO STAY
Chatha turn right, following the sign
for Ros Muc and Pearse’s Cottage.
THE ARAN ISLANDS (OILEÁIN
ARANN) 0 Pearse’s Cottage (Teach Above Traditional red-sailed Galway hookers
An Dún Guest House inexpensive an Phiarsaigh) catch the breeze in Galway Bay
Welcoming guesthouse at the foot of
Connor’s Fort on Inishmaan. Five en Rosmuck Peninsula, Co Galway q The Aran Islands (Oileáin
suite rooms with lovely views, and Located just off the R340, Pearse’s Arann)
dinner available too. Cottage (open daily) was the summer Co Galway
Inishmaan; 099 73047; www.inismeain residence of the Dublin school This trio of islands on the western
accommodation.ie; Mar–Nov only
teacher, revolutionary and writer fringes of Europe – Inishmore (Inis Mor;
Kilmurvey House inexpensive Pádraig Pearse (1879–1916). Great Island), Inishmaan (Inis Meáin;
Situated between Kilronan and Bun Following the collapse of the 1916 Middle Island) and Inisheer (Inis Oírr;
Gowla on the west side of the island,
at the foot of Dun Aengus, this 150- Uprising, Pearse and 14 other leaders Eastern Island) – are a continuation of
year-old stone house has en suite were executed, thus becoming the limestone base of the Burren in
bedrooms with fine views. Dinner martyrs to the cause. Pearse used this North Clare (see p127). Far out in
served in summer. cottage to run a summer school for Galway Bay, they act as a bulwark,
Kilmurvey, Inishmore; 099 61218;
www.aranislands.ie his students. It was also where he helping to protect the city of Galway
penned his graveside oration for from the driving force of the Atlantic.
Man of Aran Cottage inexpensive the nationalist hero Jeremiah For many Irish people, the islands
Delightful cottage offering limited
but good accommodation beside O’ Donovan Rossa in 1915. The symbolize a Celtic Eden, where Irish
Kilmurvey beach on the west side of closing words of the speech, “Ireland traditions, from language to dress, as
Inishmore. Only one room is en suite.
Evening meals available on request.
Kilmurvey, Inishmore; 099 61301;
Mar–Oct only
SPIDDAL (AN SPIDÉAL)
An Cruiscin Lan Hotel and
Restaurant inexpensive
Popular, modern hotel in the middle
of Spiddal. Rooms are spacious and
en suite. Restaurant attached.
Spiddal; 091 553148;
www.cruiscin.ie
Right The blanket bogland of Connemara,
long harvested for peat

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