Page 50 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

48 BACK ROADS IRELAND

t Beara Peninsula
Co Cork
The Ring of Beara is a scenic driving route that runs around the
Beara Peninsula from Glengarriff to Dursey Sound and then back
to Kenmare in County Kerry. Along the way are stunning coves,
picturesque villages, islands, forests and mountains. Whether the
weather is sunny and warm or moody and misty, this peninsula
leaves a lasting impression on visitors. For archaeology enthusiasts,
there are stone circles, cairns and burial grounds, some dating back
to 2500 BC, while walkers and cyclists will find plenty of routes, trails
and mountain paths on the Beara Way. Sea angling is also very
popular. Visitors should take their time driving around the peninsula,
stopping off at beaches, harbours or historical sights along the way.

On the route from Glengarriff to The area around Allihies 5, the last
Castletownbere the route passes village on the peninsula, used to be
Above Dramatic Dunboy Castle, set on the through Adrigole 1, whose harbour dotted with copper mines and there
bay in Castletownbere affords plenty of opportunities for is a fascinating Copper Mine
water sports such as sailing, kayaking Museum (open Easter–Oct: daily) telling
and powerboating. of the history of copper-mining in
Castletownbere 2 is the main the area. Allihies is on lovely
town on the Beara peninsula, with a Ballydonegan Bay, which has a
busy port full of fishing trawlers. Its quartz strand. Many artists are drawn
large natural harbour, Berehaven, is to the area by its scenic beauty.
overlooked by the ruins of Dunboy The village of Eyeries 6, with its
Castle. Across the harbour lies Bere brightly painted houses, overlooks
Island 3, accessible by ferry. It has the Atlantic. The surrounding area is
an interesting military history, with rich in historic sights, including an
parts of the island still used by the Ogham Stone (a granite pillar carved
Irish army for training. There is a with ancient writing) at Ballycrovane
choice of places to eat, drink and stay 7 standing over 5 m (17 ft) high.
VISITING BEARA PENINSULA
on the island, and panoramic views At Lauragh, take the Healy Pass 8
Tourist Information from its Ardnakinna lighthouse. though the Caha Mountains, back
St Peter’s Grounds, Castletownbere, Further along, at the very tip of the to Adrigole and on to Glengarriff, or
Beara; 027 70054; Beara Peninsula, lies Dursey Island continue on the R571 to Kenmare
www.bearatourism.com 4, a rugged, almost treeless place in County Kerry (see p54).
accessible only by cable car – strong ª Return to Glengarriff on the R572,
tides make it unsafe for boats. Only then take the N71 to Ballylickey. Turn
about ten people live on the island left onto the R584 and head upwards
WHERE TO STAY
and there are no cafés or shops, but and through the spectacular Pass of
it is a peaceful spot for walks and Keimaneigh. At the end of the pass,
BEARA PENINSULA
Rodeen Country House inexpensive birdwatching, and there are great turn left onto the L4643 following
Set within sub-tropical gardens in a Atlantic views. the signs for Gougane Barra.
secluded location, this guesthouse Bunaw
Hogs
offers panoramic views of Bere Island Head Bridge Ville
and Bantry Bay. Caherdaniel Lauragh
Castletownbere; 027 70158; C a h a M o u n t a i n s
Ardgroom
www.rodeencountryhouse.com K e n m a r e R i v e r Healy Pass
GOUGANE BARRA FOREST PARK Scariff Ballycrovane
Gougane Barra Hotel moderate Coulagh Adrigole
Bay
Eyeries
The setting of this family-run hotel Caherkeen Slieve Miskish Mountains
Hungry Hill
has to be one of the most picturesque Cod’s Head 686m Curryglass
in West Cork, with views out over the
tranquil lake to St Finbarr’s Oratory on Ballydonegan Allihies Castletownbere
Bay
the island, and surrounded by forests Ballydonegan B a n t r y B a y
and national parklands. Rooms are Dursey Bere Island
very comfortable and the home- Island Garinish Cahermore
cooked food is delicious.
Gougane Barra, Macroom; 026 47069; Dursey Crow Black Ball 0 kilometres 10
Head
www.gouganebarrahotel.com; closed Head Head
mid-Oct–early Apr 0 miles 10
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
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