Page 51 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 2: Islands and Lighthouses 49

Coastal Landscapes appreciate the 140 ha (350 acres) of
A driving tour around this part of forest park, leave the car and try one
the world is lovely not only for the of the many signposted nature trails.
pretty towns and villages along the In summer, the hotel (see left) stages
way, but for its stunning coastal a series of events down by the lake.
scenery. Cliffs and peninsulas are
almost sculpted, dotted by grazing ª Return to the R584 and turn left
sheep or cows. The lush green following signs for Macroom.
pastures and hedgerows here are
in contrast to the more desolate u Macroom
scenery of the coastline further Co Cork
west. Mild Gulf Stream temperatures
cause everything to flourish. It is no Macroom is a busy market town
wonder that there are so many on the River Sullane. It has several
local artisan foods produced in historical features, such as the
this area, many of which can be remains of a gateway and Norman
sampled in atmospheric pubs and tower, both of which were part of
restaurants along the route. Macroom Castle. The gate gives
access to the castle grounds, with
fine riverside walks. Nearby, Bealick
y Gougane Barra Mill Heritage Centre (open Apr–Sep: Above St Finbarr’s Oratory, on the lake in
Forest Park daily) is a working corn mill with a Gougane Barra Forest Park
Co Cork water-powered wheel.
This is a stunning, peaceful national
park set in a lake-filled valley and
surrounded by mountains and EAT AND DRINK AROUND
forests. It is also home to the source BEARA PENINSULA
of Cork’s River Lee. In the centre of
the lake you’ll see St Finbarr’s Oratory, The Copper Kettle inexpensive
set on the island where St Finbarr, An atmospheric café offering
the founder of Cork city, built his sandwiches, salads and hot dishes,
plus mouthwatering desserts and
monastery in the 6th century. The home-baking.
current chapel was built around The Square, Castletownbere;
1900. The island is accessible by 027 71792; open daytime only;
causeway and there are also circular closed Sun
cells and a well to be seen. MacCarthy’s Bar inexpensive
For those who do not have time Lively grocery-pub made famous
to explore on foot, there is also a following its appearance on the cover
circular drive through the forest of Pete McCarthy’s eponymous book;
bar food is available during the day.
(5 km/3 miles). Follow the road with Above Colourful façades and market cross in The Square, Castletownbere;
St Finbarr’s to the right. But to fully Macroom’s main square 027 70014
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Jolly Roger and Murphy’s Bar, often the island – you may see whales
Baltimore is a great base to visit one have live music sessions. The island and dolphins from here. Ireland’s
of West Cork’s lovely islands. Take a is also well-known for its artists. southernmost inhabited island is
trip to Sherkin, Cape Clear, Garinish, also home to a Gaeltacht (Irish-
Whiddy, Dursey or Bere Island to Take the ferry from Baltimore 9 speaking area), with two Irish
sample the relaxed pace of life, or (see p44). summer colleges. There are also craft
take one of the peninsula drives. Cape Clear Island shops, a café, two pubs and a club
Sherkin Island This is a wild, rugged and unspoiled that often hosts music sessions.
Sherkin Island, just 5 km (3 miles) island and, with plenty of wild Take the ferry from Baltimore 9 or
long and 2 km (1 mile) wide, is a flowers, birds and beaches, it is a
peaceful and relaxed haven, with haven of solitude. There are Schull; the journey time is 45 minutes.
stunning beaches such as Silver breathtaking views in all directions, Peninsula drives
Strand and Trabawn, which are safe from the Atlantic and Fastnet Rock, Explore one of the peninsulas –
for swimming, as well as the ruins of to Roaringwater Bay and Baltimore. Mizen Head q, Sheep’s Head w,
O’Driscoll Castle and a Franciscan Historic sights include St Kieran’s or Beara t – from Baltimore 9 or
Abbey dating back to 1460 to Church and O’Driscoll Castle. Walk Bantry e.
explore. There are places to stay on to the 19th-century lighthouse and
the island, and the two pubs, the watchtower at the southern end of Follow the drive instructions.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50

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