Page 251 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Ireland
P. 251

THE  MIDLANDS      249


       With monuments predating
       Egypt’s pyramids, the Boyne
       Valley is marketed as the Irish
       “Valley of the Kings”.
         Newgrange and Knowth can
       only be seen on a tour run by
       Brú na Bóinne Interpretative
       Centre near Newgrange. The
       centre has displays on the
       area’s Stone Age heritage and a
       reconstruction of Newgrange.

       T Dowth
       Off N51, 3 km (2 miles) E of
       Newgrange. Closed to the public.
       The passage grave at Dowth
       was plundered by Victorian
       souvenir hunters and has not   Slane Castle in grounds landscaped by Capability Brown
       been fully excavated. You
       cannot approach the tomb, but   w Old Mellifont   possible to appre ciate the
       it can be seen from the road.  Abbey    scale and ground plan of the
                                               original complex. Little survives
       T Knowth            Road map D3. Tullyallen, Cullen,    of the abbey church, but to the
       1.5 km (1 mile) NW of Newgrange.   Co Louth. Tel 041 982 6459.    south of it, enclosed by what
       Open as Newgrange (see pp250–51).  £ to Drogheda. @ to Drogheda or   remains of the Roman esque
       Knowth outdoes Newgrange in   Slane. Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm   cloister, is the most interesting
       several respects, above all in the   daily (last adm: 45 mins before   build ing at Melli font: a unique
       quantity of its treasures, which   closing). & 8 ∑ mellifontabbey.ie  13th­century octag onal
       form the greatest con centration   On the banks of the   lavabo where monks
       of megalithic art in Europe. Also,   River Mattock, 10 km   washed their hands in
       the site was occupied for a much   (6 miles) west of   a foun tain before
       longer period – from Neolithic   Drogheda, lies the   meals. Four of the
       times right up until about 1400.  first Cistercian   building’s eight sides
         Unusually, Knowth has two   monastery to have   survive, each with a
       passage tombs rather than one.   been built in Ireland.   Romanesque
       The excavations begun in 1962   Mellifont was   Glazed medieval tiles   arch. To the east
       are now complete and the site   founded in 1142 on   at Mellifont Abbey  of the cloister
       is open. The tombs can only be   the orders of St   stands the
       viewed externally   Malachy, the Arch bishop of   14th­century chapter house,
       to prevent further   Armagh. He was greatly   with its impressive vaulted
       decay. Keep a       influenced by St Bernard who,   ceiling and medieval tiled floor.
       lookout for the      based at his monastery at
       finely carved         Clairvaux in France, was
       kerbstones.           behind the success of the   e Slane
       Visitors sign          Cistercian Order in Europe.   Road map D3. Co Meath.
       up for tours           The archbishop introduced   * 950. @
       via Brú na             not only Cistercian rigour
       Bóinne.                to Mellifont, but also the   Slane is an attractive estate
                              formal style of monastic   vill age, centred on a quartet of
                              architecture used on the   Georgian houses. The Boyne
                              Continent. His new   flows through it and skirts Slane
                              monastery be came a   Castle Demesne, which is set in
                              model for other Cistercian   glorious grounds laid out in the
                              centres built in Ireland,   18th century by Capability Brown.
                              retaining its supre macy   The castle was damaged by fire
                              over them until 1539,   in 1991 but reopened in 2001.
                              when the abbey was     Just to the north rises the
                              closed and turned into a   Hill of Slane where, in 433,
                              fortified house. William of   St Patrick is said to have lit a
                              Orange used Melli font as   Paschal (Easter) fire as a chal­
                              his head quarters during   lenge to the pagan High King
                              the Battle of the Boyne    of Tara (see p252). The event
                              in 1690. The abbey is    symbolized the triumph of
       Ruined lavabo at Mellifont Abbey  now a ruin, but it is still   Christianity over paganism.




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