Page 103 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 9: Classic Dolomites Tour 101

the bridge, carrying straight on to
Piazza del Grano, then turn right back
to Piazza Walther.
ª From central Bolzano, follow signs
for Funivia (cable car) di S Genesio and
for Castel Roncolo. Turn right, crossing
the river to the car park. Walk up the
steps (slippery when wet) to the castle.
2 Castel Roncolo
(Schloss Runkelstein)
Alto Adige; 39100 Above left Magnifica Comunità, Cavalese’s
Pier Paolo Pasolini filmed his version of (Magreid), then take the minor road to historic parliament building Above right
Boccaccio’s (1313–75) bawdy tales The the station and cross over A22 and River Vines on the slopes above Lago di Caldaro, on
Decameron (1971) in this 13th-century Adige. Turn left onto SS12 to Egna the Strada del Vino Below Bustling market
castle (closed Mon). The secular frescoes (Neumarkt) and turn right through the on the Piazza Erbe, Bolzano
are some of the best in the world. village. Turn right onto SS48 towards Val
Images of giants and dwarves, the di Fiemme. After two sharp bends follow EAT AND DRINK
legendary lovers Tristan and Isolde signs left for Aldein (Aldino). Turn right
and the world of chivalry were painted after village and park at the Geoparc. BOLZANO
to impress in the 14th century – the Ca’ de Bezzi (Batzenhäusl)
castle was part of the Vintler family’s 4 Geoparc Bletterbach inexpensive
bid to be accepted into noble society. Alto Adige; 39040 This 600-year-old inn offers mixed plates
served in cast-iron pans. Good wine.
ª Return to Bolzano centre, cross the Rock fans can see how the Dolomites Via A Hofer (Andreas-Hofer-Strasse) 30;
Ponte Druso and go straight. Take SS42 were formed, epoch by epoch, as well 0471 050 950; www.batzen.it
for Appiano (Eppan) and Strada del Vino as spot the tracks of prehistoric reptiles Franziskanerstuben moderate
(Weinstrasse). Turn right to Caldaro. by walking the length of this 8-km This homely restaurant offers a mix of
Park in the wine centre car park or in (5-mile) fossil-packed gorge (admission Italian and Tiroaean dishes.
the blue boxes outside the town centre. charge), which has carved its way Via Dei Francescani 7, 39100; 0471 976
down the mountain since the last Ice 183; www.franziskanerstuben.com;
3 Strada del Vino Age. The Geopath is for experienced closed Sun
(Weinstrasse) walkers (with hiking boots); an easier STRADA DEL VINO
Alto Adige; 39052 30-minute forest path (wheelchair Ansitz Pillhof inexpensive
Although it’s one of the smallest wine accessible) from the visitor centre The best wines from South Tyrol are on
regions in Italy, Alto Adige produces gives views into the canyon. display in the enoteca (wine shop) here;
more DOC wines than any other. This ª Descend via Aldein (Aldino) to try by the glass at the bar or in the bistro.
section of the drive follows part of the SS48. Turn left to Cavalese in the Val Via Bolzano 48, 39010 Frangart, Appiano
(Eppan) (on SS42 south of Bolzano); 0471
South Tyrolean Wine Road. Start at di Fiemme. Park in the main square. 633 100; www.pillhof.com
Caldaro’s Winecenter della Cantina Zur Rose expensive
(open daily), with wines for any budget. 5 Val di Fiemme The elegant food is Michelin-starred
More tasting opportunities are on offer Trentino; 38033 and includes seafood and flavours from
at the wine bar/visitor centre, Punkt The focus of Cavalese’s town centre is across Italy. The cellar is well-stocked.
(closed Mon), on the main square. the Magnifica Comunità, a medieval Via Josef Innerhofer 2, 39057 San
Enjoy, too, Caldaro’s 16th-century palazzo (not open to public) frescoed Michele, Appiano (Eppan); 0471 662
249; www.zur-rose.com; closed Sat eve
Uberetsch architecture, which mixes with images of San Vigilio. This was & Sun
Gothic and Renaissance styles. once the summer palace of the
ª Follow Strada del Vino (Weinstrasse) Bishops of Trento, who used to stay Restaurant Ritterhof expensive
This restaurant serves locally sourced
through Termeno (Tramin) and Magre here to escape the summer heat. Stay dishes with an imaginative twist and
for a coffee or lunch before carrying on has a good wine list.
along SS48 to Tésero. This is known for Weinstrasse 1/A, Kaltern; 0471 963 330;
its Chiesa di San Rocco, frescoed with www.restaurant-ritterhof.it; closed
Jan–mid-Feb: Mon–Thu, mid-Feb–Dec:
activities not allowed on a Sunday, Mon & Tue lunch
such as drinking and playing dice.
ª From Tésero, take the minor road VAL DI FIEMME
(not SS48) to Predazzo, then before El Molin expensive
Moena take a deviation to the right. Great stuzzichini (snacks), a superior
Head past Lago di Soraga and return to pizzeria and even Michelin-starred food.
P.za Cesare Battisti 11, 38033 Cavalese;
SS48. Drive through Pera di Fassa and 0462 340 074 (book for lunch); www.
park at the Vajolet chairlift station. elmolin.info; closed lunch Mon–Fri & Tue
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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