Page 105 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 9: Classic Dolomites Tour 103

0 Val San Cassiano ª From Corvara, follow signs for the
Alto Adige; 39030 Passo Gardena (Grödner Joch). Park at
This is a lovely part of the Alta Badia, the bar/restaurant at the top.
where footpaths lead through lush
pastures from Capanna Alpina into the w Passo Gardena
mountains of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies (Grödner Joch)
Natural Park – site of many Ladin Alto Adige; 39033
legends. In this quiet valley, look for A quieter pass than Pordoi, this route
chamois, capercailies and eidelweiss. has outstanding views of moorland
There are also traditional vila settle­ and mountain, with a café at the top
ments – wooden homes with a at 2,121 m (6,959 ft). The descent leads
galleried hayloft, built around a central into the Val Gardena (Grödnertal) and
square with a fountain, drinking trough the villages of Selva (Wolkenstein),
and communal bread oven – a mer­ Santa Cristina (Sankt Christina) and
ging of sociable Roman customs with Ortisei (Sankt Ulrich), which throng
those of the more isolated Rhaetian with skiers in winter but are relatively
and Bajuvares peoples centuries ago. peaceful in summer.
ª Continue to La Villa (Stern). Turn ª Descend on SS243 and turn right
left for Corvara. onto SS242. At Ortisei (St. Ulrich), turn
left for Castelrotto (Kastelruth). Go Above The pretty ski resort of Corvara, a good
Ladin country straight on to Siusi (Seis). Park at the base for a trip up Col Alt
The third language in this region, cable car for a walk or drive past Fié
after Italian and German, is Ladin – allo Sciliar (Völs am Schlern), then EAT AND DRINK
a combination of Latin, Celtic and turn left to Prösels.
Rhaetian. During the Roman Empire, VAL SAN CASSIANO
Ladin territory ran from Switzerland e Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) Rifugio Scotoni expensive
to the Adriatic sea, but a Germanic Walk to this popular mountain hut for
culture from Bavaria took precedence Alto Adige; 39040 its wood­fire cooked mixed grills.
around AD 400. There are about The route runs below the Alpe di Siusi Alpe Lagazuoi 2, 39030 La Villa in Badia
30,000 Ladin speakers in the plateau at 2,000 m (6,560 ft) (closed to (1-hour’s hike on Path 20 from Capanna
Dolomites today and the language traffic 9am–5pm, unless staying in a Alpina, off the San Cassiano valley road);
is taught in schools and used in hotel on the mountain). The road is 0471 847 330; www.scotoni.it; closed
public administration. There are TV flanked by hay meadows, while above early Apr–mid-Jun & Oct–mid-Dec
and radio programmes in Ladin, as St. Hubertus expensive
well as the newspaper Usc di Ladins. looms Sciliar (Schlern) mountain,
symbol of the Dolomites, topped by Outstanding restaurant in Rosa Alpina
two peaks. In early summer, the wild offering Michelin­starred refined cuisine.
q Corvara flowers are stunning – take the cable Strada Micura de Rü 20, 39030 San
Cassiano; 0471 849 500; closed Tue
Alto Adige; 39033 car from Siusi (Seis) to the pastures
In 1930, mountain guide Franz around Compaccio (Compatsch) to CORVARA
Kostner saw the potential of Corvara see them. From Siusi, continue past the Rifugio Col Alt expensive
Enjoy dishes such as pasta with venison
as a ski resort and built Italy’s large onion­domed St Konstantin church ragù or oysters and Champagne.
lift to Col Alt (1,980 m/6,496 ft). He to Fiè allo Sciliar. Carry on to forbidding 0471 836 324; www.rifugiocolalt.it;
then set up the first ski school and Castel (Schloss) Prösels (Apr–Oct: guided closed Apr–mid-Jun & mid-Sep–mid-Dec
made the valley accessible to cars. tours hourly 11am–4pm Mon–Sat; Jul & AROUND PASSO GARDENA
The town is still unspoilt and is the Aug: 10am–5pm), built around 1500
centre of the Ladin­speaking area. by the Lords of Völs – witch hunters, Stüa Catores moderate
Try the deer ravioli with bilberry butter.
A trip up Col Alt is worth it for the friends of Emperor Maximilian and Via Sacunstr. 49, 39046 Ortisei; 0471 796
restaurant and views at the top. owners of salt mines near Innsbruck. 682; www.stuacatores.com; closed Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS life in the area in the Copper Age. Wine tour
To break up the tour into day trips, use Pick up a picnic in Bolzano, then drive From Bolzano 1, drive the Strada
Bolzano as a base. Families will enjoy to Geoparc Bletterbach 4 to search del Vino 3 to Caldaro to visit its
a look into the area’s past. Adults will for dinosaur fossils. Enjoy lunch, then wine centres and plan which wineries
enjoy the wine tour – but may want set off to Castel Roncolo 2 for a to visit. Head to Tramin, then Cortaccia,
to do it in a tour group minibus – classic castle with lively frescoes. Magre, Egna and Ora. Enjoy tastings
contact www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it. and lunching at a winery restaurant.
From Bolzano, take SS12 south to Ora, pick
Family time-travel up SS48 east, turning off left to Aldino then Follow the drive’s directions for the Strada
Visit the Museo Archeologico at Bletterbach. Return the same way, passing del Vino, but stay on the SS12 at Ora,
Bolzano 1 to learn about Ötzi and through Bolzano, then taking SS508 north. returning back to Bolzano.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

100-103_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 103 21/09/17 11:17 am