Page 102 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

100 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Bolzano (Bozen)
Alto Adige; 39100
In a valley at the junction of the Talvera and Isarco rivers, Alto Adige’s
main town has changed hands several times over the centuries. In
the Middle Ages it was controlled by the Counts of Tirol, then by the
Bishops of Trento; next it passed to the Habsburgs, then to Bavaria
and Austria. Although it was given to Italy at the end of World War I,
there’s still a real Germanic feel to the town centre.

A two-hour walking tour Backtrack a little to the top end of the
Via Laurin connects the train station market and take a left into the road
to the start of the walk at Piazza named after Dr Joseph Streiter 6 –
Above Statue of Walther von der Vogelweide Walther 1. Passing the statue of a mayor of the town in the mid-19th
in Piazza Walther (Waltherplatz), Bolzano Walther von der Vogelweide (1170– century – here are shops selling choc-
1230), a great German poet of the olate, vintage clothes and accessories
VISITING BOLZANO (BOZEN) Middle Ages, head to the Gothic here. Continue to Via dei Bottai
Parking Duomo 2 (open daily) with its (Bindergasse) and turn right to Piazza
Park in Piazza Walther (Waltherplatz), elaborate steeple and Municipio (Rathausplatz)
on Via Laurin or outside the train lozenge-pattern roof. A 7, lined with beautiful
station (in the Central Parking facility). short walk leads to the Rococo stucco façades.
Tourist information Chiesa dei Domenicani Another right turn leads
Via Alto Adige 60, 39100; 0471 307 000; 3 (open daily), with down Portici (Lauben)
www.bolzano-bozen.it Gothic frescoes from the 8, a porticoed shopping
Giotto school and fine Detail of a fresco from street with oriel windows
WHERE TO STAY
15th-century frescoes by Bolzano’s Gothic Duomo and elegant Baroque
BOLZANO Friedrich Pacher in the floral plasterwork.
Greif expensive cloister (separate entrance). Head up Continue along Via Museo to the
This central, 500-year-old inn is now Via Goethe-Strasse to the food Museo Archeologico 9 (10am–
a chic 33-bedroom haven filled with market on Piazza Erbe (Obstplatz) 4. 6pm Tue–Sun; also Mon in Jul, Aug & Dec).
original art and Biedermeier furniture. On one corner stands the fountain of The prize exhibit here is Ötzi – the
Piazza Walther, Bolzano;
0471 318 000; www.greif.it Neptune (1745), known as Gabelwirt remains of a man in his 40s from the
(Innkeeper with a Fork) – walk past Copper Age, preserved in the ice of
AROUND GEOPARC this and head up Via dei Francescani the Alps on the Italian-Austrian
BLETTERBACH (Franziskanergasse) to the Convento border. There’s a video reconstruction
Krone inexpensive dei Francescani 5 (open Mon–Sat), of how Ötzi may have met his end in
This 16th century friendly family-run dating to the first half of the 14th 3500 BC. Cross the River Talvera
village inn has an excellent restaurant. century. Inside is one of Bolzano’s (Talfer) to the arch on Piazza Vittoria
Dorfplatz 3, Piazza Principale, 39040
Aldino (Aldein); 0471 886 825; finest treasures: a superb Gothic (Siegesplatz) 0, commissioned by
www.gasthof-krone.it wooden altar carved by Hans Klocher. Mussolini in 1928. Return back over
LUNGO TALVERA BOLZANO V I A C A S T EL RO N COLO V I A D E I V A N G A 0 metres 100
Piazza Vittoria
(Siegesplatz)
V I A T A L V E R A
P O NT E TALV ER A
V I A S A N Q U I R I N O V I A C . D I R I S P A R M I O V. ROGGIA V I A V A N G A Convento dei 0 yards 100
FRANCESCANI
VIA DEI
V IA M US E O
V I A L E V A N E Z I A Talvera (Talfer) V I A R O S M I N I Archeologico V I A P O R T I C I VIA DEl BOTTAI
Museo
Francescani
V I A V I N T L E R
Piazza Erbe
(Obstplatz)
L U N G O T A L V E R A S . Q U I R I N O V I A D A N T E VIA OSPEDALE Domenicani V I A G O E T H E S T R . V I A P O S T A Walther DEL GRANO VIA GRAPPOLI Municipio V I A A N D R E A S H O F E R VIA C AVO UR
V I A L . D A V I N C I
V I A D R J S T R E I T E R
VIA MÜHL
PIAZZA
Piazza
V I A A R G E N T I E R I
(Rathausplatz)
V I A C A R D U C C I
PIAZZA
V I A D I M O S T R A
DOMENICANI
Piazza
V IA D E L A I
Chiesa dei
VIA CAPPUCCINI
V I A G E R B E R
V I A D E R E N A
VIA ISARCO
Duomo
Station
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200 Railway VIA PIAVE
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