Page 104 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

102 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above left Mountain scenery behind Corvara
Above centre Lago di Fedaia, near Canazei Far 6 Val di Fassa ª Descend on SS48 through Arabba
right Hiking in the Dolomites at Marmolada Trentino; 38039 and Livinallongo; climb to the Passo di
Below The glacier on top of Marmolada Popular with skiers, Val di Fassa’s classic Falzàrego. Park at the cable car station.
sight is the Rosengarten mountain
WHERE TO STAY range (Catinaccio in Italian). A chairlift 8 Lagazuoi (Lagació)
VAL SAN CASSIANO (end Jun–early Sep) climbs from Pera to Veneto; 32043
Garni Ai Pini inexpensive Ciampedie at 2,000 m (6,562 ft), where A cable car whisks passengers up from
A family-run guesthouse with sauna. it’s possible to walk among the peaks. Passo di Falzàrego to Lagazuoi at
Strada Glira 4, 39030 San Cassiano; An easy one-hour forest trail (Path 540) 2,778 m (9,114 ft) in just three minutes
0471 849 541; www.ai-pini.it; closed leads from Ciampedie to the Gardeccia (Jun–Nov & Dec–Easter). A short walk
Easter–early Jun, Oct & Nov refuge – perfect for a lunch stop. uphill leads to the Lagazuoi refuge, a
Chalet Susi expensive ª Continue on SS48 to Canazei, and large café/restaurant with stunning,
A simple and well-presented apartment. begin the signposted ascent to the far-reaching views of most of the
Via Sotsas 4, 39030 La Villa; 0471 847
015 ; www.chaletsusi.it; closed Easter– Passo Pordoi. Bear right on SS48 up a Dolomites. In World War I, Austrian
mid-Jun, Oct & Nov series of steep switchbacks to Passo troops gained a bird’s-eye view of
Pordoi, which has ample free parking. the Passo Valparola from the exposed
Rosa Alpina expensive
Understated luxury at this spa hotel. Kaiserjäger path to the northwest.
Strada Micura de Rü 20, 39030 San Rosengarten (Rose garden) Visitors with walking boots and a head
Cassiano in Badia; 0471 849 500; Ladin legends are part of an epic oral for heights can turn right from the
www.rosalpina.it tradition. One has it that the dwarf cable car station and head down the
CORVARA King Laurin, angry when his beloved rock-cut steps that lead to the wartime
La Perla expensive Princess Similde was taken away from galleries, blasted into the heart of the
him, put a spell on his rose garden so
Luxury hotel with exceptional food. that no one would see it again by day mountain (rent helmets/torches at
Strada Col Alt 105, 39033; 0471 831 the entrance). This exciting descent
000; www.hotel-laperla.it; closed Apr– or night – but he forgot to include lasts about 90 minutes and is a hit
mid-May & mid-Sep–Nov dawn and dusk – when the sun gives
the mountains their rosy glow. with older children. Alternatively,
ALPE DI SIUSI (SEISER ALM) return to the pass by the cable car.
Cavallino d’Oro inexpensive ª Turn left towards Passo di Valparola
A 700-year-old inn with 40 rooms. 7 Passo Pordoi and drive for a few minutes to the
Piazza Kraus, 39040 Castelrotto; 0471
706 337; www.cavallino.it Alto Adige; 38032 Museum of the Tre Sassi Fort.
For the best views of glacier-topped
Romantik Hotel Turm expensive Marmolada (3,246 m/10,650 ft), take 9 Tre Sassi Fort
A superb spa hotel with great food.
Piazza Chiesa 9, 939050 Fie allo Sciliar; the cable car (late May–late Oct) from Veneto, 32043
0471 725 014; www.hotelturm.it; closed Passo Pordoi (2,239 m/7,346 ft) up to Built in 1897 by the Austro-Hungarian
first 2 wks Apr & early Nov–21 Dec Sass Pordoi. Alternatively, stretch the army to defend the Passo Valparola
legs for half an hour or so along the (2,168 m/7,113 ft), this fort was opened
Viel del Pan (“trail of bread”) – an old as a museum (15 Jun–30 Sep: open
grain-smuggling route which begins daily) in 2003 to commemorate the
at the pass behind the Albergo Savoia 1914–18 war, with the entrance now
(hiking boots essential). Once back in guarded by “soldiers” in full uniform.
the car, descend through a series of Once home to a garrison, the fort now
steep switchbacks to pretty Arabba. exhibits poignant memorabilia, letters,
Carry on along the Livinallongo valley, photographs and films showing the
passing the 11th-century Andraz harsh icy conditions that the soldiers
castle, which once defended the iron on both sides fought under during a
ore mines and foundries producing conflict that saw tens of thousands die.
swords for export across Europe. ª Descend to Val San Cassiano.

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