Page 154 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

152 BACK ROADS nORThERn AnD CEnTRAL iTALy

Right View of the Ligurian Appenines on
the way to Torriglia Below right Rapallo
castle, built in the 16th century to ward
off pirates Below left Colourful façades
on Camogli’s beachfront promenade

WHERE TO sTay
CAMOGLI
La Camogliese moderate
Friendly, family-run 2-star hotel
with balconies overlooking the
sea, right in the centre of town.
Via Garibaldi 55, 16032; 0185 771
402; www.lacamogliese.it
Villa Rosmarino moderate–expensive
Chic villa high above Camogli, with six
very contemporary, art-filled rooms,
with terrace, pool, garden and views.
Via Figari 38, 16032; 0185 771 580; www.
villarosmarino.com; no children under 8
PORTOFINO
Eden moderate–expensive 1 Camogli
Set a little way back from the piazzetta, and the Museo Marinaro (closed Tue),
this is the most affordable hotel in town, Genoa; 16032 full of models of ships, paintings and
with a charming garden and restaurant. Steeped in seafaring tradition and naval instruments, recalls the town’s
Via Dritto 18, 16034; 0185 269 091; once rivalling Genoa in naval power, glorious maritime past.
www.hoteledenportofino.com
the town acquired its name, Casa ª For San Fruttuoso, take a boat
RAPALLO Mogli (house of wives), because the from Camogli (along the coast, or
Italia e Lido moderate menfolk spent so much of their time walk about 3 hours in each direction).
Enjoy the private beach and dining at sea. The case torri, the colourful
terrace at this historic promenade houses up to seven storeys high, 2 San Fruttuoso
hotel next to the castle. threaded with steep alleyways that Genoa; 16030
Lungomare Castello 1, 16035; 0185
50492; www.italiaelido.com are the hallmark of the fishing villages The boat from Camogli chugs round
of the Levante coast, are stacked up the Golfo del Tigullio to the ancient
TORRIGLIA from the picturesque harbour. During Benedictine Abbazia di San Fruttuoso,
Hotel della Posta inexpensive the Sagra del Pesce (fish festival) in straddling a sandy cove; originally,
Built in the early 1900s, this central May, the harbour is the scene of a boats would have moored under its
hotel is simple, but well furnished. festive fry-up when thousands of fish arches. Sights include the 11th-century
Via Matteotti 39, 16029; 010 944 050
are cooked in a giant 5-m (15-ft) pan church, topped by a tiled cupola,
and distributed free to the crowds. the cloisters, and the 16th-century
The 12th-century Dragonara Castle, watchtower. The other attraction,
Below The picturesque harbour settlement set on a rocky promontory, separates visitable by glass-bottomed boat, is
of Portofino the busy harbour from the beach, a bigger than life-size bronze statue
of Cristo degli Abissi (Christ of the
Deep), sunk out in the bay in 1954,
hands raised in blessing for those
who work on or under the sea. There
are beachside cafés, bars and
swimming, but no road access.
ª Head north out of Camogli to Via
Aurelia/SP1, then turn right. Fork right
onto the SP39, then right again on
SP227 along the coast to Portofino.
Park in the multi-storey car park.
3 Portofino
Genoa; 16034
Even those without a luxury yacht
anchored in the enchanting harbour
can appreciate how Portofino earned
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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