Page 155 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 153

its reputation as one of Italy’s most
romantic spots. Window shopping at
Missoni or Dior and people-watching
from a waterside café may be a draw
for many, but for the most gorgeous
views, walk to Castello Brown (Nov–
Mar: closed Mon–Fri), up in the pines on
the peninsula. Montague Yeats Brown,
the British consul, gave his name to
this 16th-century castle when he lived
here in the 1890s. From here, walk on
to the Faro, the old lighthouse at the
Punta del Capo. Art lovers should visit
the Museo del Parco (winter: closed Tue),
overlooking the harbour, which
displays intriguing modern sculptures.
ª Take the SP227 north to Rapallo.
Park along the seafront or at the
car park on Via Milite Ignoto. Above The the small fishing village of
ª Take the SP1 towards Genoa and, Camogli Below The ruins of Torriglia
4 Rapallo from Recco, turn right onto SP333. castle, set among woods
Genoa; 16035 At Gattorna, take SP21 to Torriglia.
The grand hotels and villas lining Park in the main square. WHERE TO EAT
Rapallo’s Lungomare still recall the
19th-century aristocrats and literati, 5 Torriglia CAMOGLI AND AROUND
among them Max Beerbohm and Ezra Genoa; 16029 La Cucina di Nonna Nina moderate
Pound, who were attracted by the A 30-minute drive on a steep and Whether dining in the blue and white
town’s inviting climate and location. twisting road leads from the coast up rooms or outside in the garden, visitors
Along the shore, past the ruined to the chestnut forests, lakes and will enjoy the best of Liguria’s cuisine.
Via Molfino 126, Località San Rocco,
16th-century castle jutting out villages of the Ligurian Apennines. 16032 (from Camogli take SP1 towards
into the sea, the ochre Villa Tigullio Verdant in spring and summer, and La Spezia, then turn right); 0185 773
houses the Museo del Merletto, glorious in autumn, this is a much less- 835; www.nonnanina.it; closed Wed
where drawers full of lace reflect the visited area than the coast. Torriglia’s La Bossa moderate–expensive
town’s past history of lace-making. main sight is its castle, perched high Wine bottles line the walls of this small
In the centre, the Museo Gaffoglio above the town. The domain of the enoteca, which has a daily-changing
(closed Sun & Mon) holds an eclectic Fieschi from the mid-14th century, menu featuring dishes such as stuffed
collection of Meissen porcelain, 19th- then the Doria family from the 16th anchovies, rabbit or a fish ravioli.
Via della Reppublica 124, 16032; 0185
and 20th-century pastoral paintings to the 18th centuries, it is now in 772 505; www.labossa.it; closed Wed
and exquisite Fabergé pieces. For the ruins. The area is known for its porcini & lunch Sep–Jun
best view of the area, take a ride up mushrooms and canestrelli biscuits. PORTOFINO
the funivia (cable car) from Piazza ª Take the uphill road north to SP15-1
Solari to the striped and pinnacled and turn left and left again, following O Magazin moderate–expensive
An ideal spot on the water for watching
Santuario di Montallegro (1559), brown signs to Pentema. Park at the the world go by – be prepared to wait
which houses a Byzantine icon said road’s end for the top of village or for a table. Try their ragù with pasta.
to possess miraculous powers. follow signs to Pezza for the lower part. Calata Marconi 34, 16034; 0185 269 178
RAPALLO
Osteria O Bansin moderate
Long-established restaurant in the old
town with an accent on fish and good-
value fixed-price lunches.
Via Venezia 105, 16035; 0185 231 119;
www.trattoriabansin.it; summer: closed
Sun lunch; winter: closed Sun & Mon eve
TORRIGLIA
La Taverna dei Fieschi moderate
After admiring the Bakelite radios, sit
down to dishes that celebrate local
porcini mushrooms, chestnuts, wild
boar and canestrelli (biscuits).
Via Magioncalda 30, 16029; 010 944
815; closed Mon

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