Page 159 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 157

connects the long sandy beach of Left The popular sandy beach at Monterosso
the new town, Fegina, to the older al Mare
part, where a huge modern statue
of Neptune (14 m/45 ft), nicknamed
“Il Gigante”, stands in front of the
harbour. Here, too, in Piazza Garibaldi,
is the 13th-century serpentine and EAT AND DRINK
white marble striped Chiesa di San
Giovanni, complete with rose window. LEVANTO
Climb the hill to the Convento dei Taverna Garibaldi inexpensive
Cappuccini (1622) and its Chiesa di Popular with locals and located on a
San Francesco for excellent artworks – bustling street, this place specializes
Crucifixion by Van Dyck, La Veronica in pizzas of all varieties, including
prawns and bresaola (air-dried beef).
by Strozzi and two good pieces by Via Garibaldi 57, 19015; 0187 808 098;
Luca Cambioso. evenings only; Sep–Jun: closed Tue
ª Take SP370, then a series of right Da Rino moderate
turns on to Vernazza. There is a car Sit outside and watch the local street
park outside the village. life as you sample minestrone soup or
t Corniglia simple seafood linguine presented on
La Spezia; 19018 crisp white tablecloths.
Compact Corniglia, the only Cinque Via Garibaldi 10, 19015; 0187 813 475;
www.ristorantedarino-levanto.com;
Terre village not directly on the sea, eves only, winter: closed Tue
sits high on a cliff amid terraced
vineyards and olive groves. Less busy VERNAZZA
than its counterparts, it makes for a Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia
peaceful stroll through the boxy inexpensive
Popular place serving good fish
houses and eclectic mix of attractive dishes – try the marinated anchovies or
gift, clothes and food shops lining the linguine – as well as pizzas and pastas.
main Via Fieschi. Looking seaward Piazza Marconi 29, 19018; 0187 821
from the dark and narrow alleyways, 193; closed Mon
the Santa Maria Belvedere offers the Belforte expensive
chance to admire the dramatic, This place serves creative cuisine, best
jagged edge of the coastline. To get eaten on the cliffside terrazzo con vista
to the beach or the train station, (terrace with view) at sunset.
Via Guidoni 22, 19020; 0187 812 222;
Above Narrow alleyway in Corniglia, typical of all descend the famous Lardarina, the www.ristorantebelforte.it; closed Tue
the Cinque Terre towns broad zig-zag path of nearly 400
steps, from where a coastal trail CORNIGLIA
r Vernazza connects with Manarola. Enoteca Il Pirun inexpensive
La Spezia; 19018 ª Head back on SP30, then turn right After sampling a glass or two of the
local wine in this cosy wine bar, head
Regarded by many as one of Italy’s onto SP61 and right again onto SP51. upstairs for a bite to eat.
most perfect villages, Vernazza’s At roundabout after Groppo, take SP59 Via Fieschi 115, 19018; 0187 812 315
pastel- and earth-coloured houses, to Manarola. Park outside the village. Other options
strewn with washing, crowd the little Stock up at A Butiega (Via Fieschi 142,
piazzetta that fronts the natural Below The harbour and the Chiesa Santa 19018) for picnic supplies: sandwiches
harbour. Take time here to watch the Margherita d’Antiochia at Vernazza and seafood antipasti are on offer.
locals fishing close to the stacks of
striated rocks and the bobbing fishing
boats. The harbourside Chiesa Santa
Margherita d’Antiochia (1318),
distinguished by its octagonal bell
tower, is unusual in having its door
on the eastern (altar) side. Perched
on top of the rocky promontory, the
watchtower of the Castello Doria
was built in the 15th century, as
were many others along this coast,
to ward off marauding pirates.
ª Head out of town on SP63 and
follow SP61 and SP30 to Corniglia.
Park before you get to the village.

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