Page 157 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 155

Far left The Lago del Brugneto, an artificial
lake that supplies Genoa with water Centre
left The river that feeds Lago del Brugneto
Left Hans Christian Andersen’s favourite
beach at Sestri Levante

8 Fontanigorda ª Take SP586 for Carasco and follow
Genoa; 16023 signs for Chiavari on SP225, then turn
It is easy to while away half an hour or left on SP1 for Sestri Levante.
so here, walking the cobbled streets
in search of all 13 of the pineapple- 0 Sestri Levante
topped fountains for which this small, Genoa; 16039
red-roofed mountain village is famous. Hans Christian Andersen enjoyed his
The fountains are dedicated – aptly visit here in 1833 so much that the Where to eat
enough for a place with an abundance town named the sandy beach Baia SESTRI LEVANTE
of water – to the Mater Dolorosa (Our delle Favole (Bay of Fairy Tales). On El Pescador expensive
Lady of Sorrows). The Baroque church the other side of the peninsula along This well-known restaurant, with
of Santi Antonio e Jacopo has a which this popular and cheerful a view over the Baia delle Favole,
decorative red-and-gold interior and resort clusters, lies the more intimate prides itself on serving the freshest
impressive barley-sugar columns. Baia di Silenzio, with its fleet of fishing fish of all types, shapes and sizes.
ª Follow the sign for Casoni on SP17, boats and coloured houses. Close by, Via Pilade Queirolo 1, 16039; 0185 428
888; www.ristoranteelpescador.com;
then SP48, drive over the Passo di the Galleria Rizzi re-creates a palazzo closed Tue
Fregarolo and turn right at SP586 for interior of the 19th century, including
Borzonasca, where the Abbazia di engaging works of art such as still-lifes Cantina del Polpo moderate
There’s plenty of fish on the menu, but
Sant/Andrea di Borzone (3 km/2 miles by the Baroque painter Felice Boselli. there are other options, too, such as
east of the village) is signposted along Lively Via XXV Aprile/Corso Colombo trofie (or trofiette) al pesto (twisty pasta),
SP49. For Borzonasca, park in Piazza is packed with interesting shops and torte di verdura (vegetable pie), plus
Garibaldi by the church. eateries, and the Hotel dei Castelli on excellent local wines and grappas.
the hill offers refreshments and Piazza Cavour 2, 16039; 0185 485 296;
www.cantinadelpolpo.it
9 Borzonasca panoramic views of both bays.
Genoa; 16041 ª Take SP1 towards La Spezia until
After a spectacular journey over the Passo del Braco, then turn right on
1,203-m (3,950-ft) Passo di Fregarolo, SP332, then SP64 for Bonassola. Below Borzonasca, the closest village to the
Borzonasca’s main attraction is the Park along the seafront. Benedectine Abbazia di Sant’Andrea di Borzone
Abbazia di Sant’Andrea di Borzone
(open daily), a short drive east of the
town. Standing in peaceful isolation
and guarded by a 600-year-old cypress
tree, the Benedictine complex was
founded in the 12th century on an
earlier 9th-century Lombard building,
and is characterized by its rows of
blind brick and stone arcading. The
bell tower was probably originally
an ancient watchtower. In the town
itself, shops sell local honey, San Stè
cheese, and, in season, hazelnuts;
and the Aveto Park office provides
information about hikes in the area.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 155 02/09/14 2:15 PM