Page 160 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

158 BACK ROADS NORTHeRN AND CeNTRAl iTAly

y Manarola square bell tower, previously an
La Spezia; 19010 ancient lookout, there’s a pleasant
Manarola’s pink- and ochre-washed walk up through the vineyards and
houses and narrow streets cascade down to the classic viewing point
down to its tiny harbour, where an at Punto Bonfiglio. At Christmas
old-fashioned crane winches the time, the hills above the village are
boats in and out of the water. The decorated with prettily illuminated
little Sciacchetrà Museum (open daily) Nativity scenes – presepe – all made
gives a good insight into the making from recycled materials.
Above Manarola, a classic Cinque Terre village of the eponymous local amber- ª Return up SP59, then take SP370 at
of pastel-coloured houses set by the sea coloured wine. From the Gothic the roundabout. Next, turn right onto
Chiesa di San Lorenzo (1338), with its SP32 to Riomaggiore. Park at the top
ornate rose window and separate of the village, paying at the booth.
Where to Stay
MANAROLA u Riomaggiore
La Torretta moderate
This chic and peaceful hotel has an La Spezia; 19017
elegant and eclectic style. The hot tub Named after the Rio Major (Main River) that now flows underground
with a view, airy rooms and subtle between houses clinging to the steep-sided ravine, Riomaggiore is
lighting make for a pampering stay.
Vico Volto 20, 19017; 0187 920 327; a good place to start walking the Cinque Terre trail. There are great
www.torrettas.com views on the climb to the 14th-century Santuario di Montenero.
Ca’ d’Andrean moderate
This hotel, in a typical Cinque Terre A two-hour walking tour
tower-house in the upper village, Maragliano. Head down the broad
is family-run, has spacious modern This walk offers a quick tour of the steps to the bustling Via Colombo 2,
rooms and a courtyard garden with village before the hard climb begins. where the river roars underfoot, and
fragrant lemon trees. From the car park at the top of the continue past the coloured houses,
Via Discovolo 101, 19017; 0187 920
040; www.cadandrean.it village, head down the steep Via little shops and boats parked on the
Santuario and turn first right along Via road near the harbour. On the right,
RIOMAGGIORE Pecunia to the Chiesa di San Giovanni there’s a blue-lit tunnel towards the
Locanda del Sole moderate Battisti 1. Founded in 1340, its lovely train station; walk through it to find
This central establishment offers 10 rose window and Gothic doorways are one of the many murals 3 by Silvio
modern rooms on different levels, all a result of 19th-century remodeling Benedetto that decorate the village.
with a terrace. Breakfasts are generous
and easy parking is a bonus. and, inside, the graceful two-toned This one depicts the building of the
Via Santuario 14, 19017; 0187 920 773; grey arches frame a life-size wooden muretti a secco (dry-stone walls) that
www.locandadelsole.net crucifix by Baroque sculptor Anton form the Cinque Terre terraces.

Benedetto V I A S I G R O N I V I A T R A C A S T E LL O S T R A D A P R O V I N C I A L O D E L L E C I N Q U E T E R R E
Murals Chiesa di San
Giovanni Battisti V I A A L D I DE D E G A SP E R I
V I A D E L L S A M O R E
V I A P E C U N I A Via Colombo
VIA TELE MACO SIGNORINI VIA COLOMBO VIA SANTU A R IO
Tunnel VIA DI LOC A
VIA S GLACOMO
Harbour V IA AN T O N IO G R AM S C I

S PROVINCIALO D CINQUE TER R E
0 metres 200
0 yards 200 Santuario
di Montenero

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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