Page 161 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 159

Left Pretty Riomaggiore, built over the Rio
Major Below left Dramatic rock formation,
at Riomaggiore Below right Small shrine to
the Madonna, by a doorway in Manarola
Eat anD DrinK
MANAROLA
Marina Piccola moderate
Sit outdoors and watch the walkers
and swimmers as evening falls, while
eating local treats – mainly seafood.
Via Lo Scalo 16, 19010; 0187 920 923;
www.hotelmarinapiccola.com/
ristorante; closed Tue
RIOMAGGIORE
Ripa del Sole moderate
Dine al fresco with elegance here, at
the top of the village, and tuck into
the superb variety of seafood,
vegetarian and organic dishes.
Via de Gasperi 282, 19017; 0187 920
143; www.ripadelsole.it; closed Mon
Other options
La Lanterna, in an old anchovy-salting
warehouse (Via San Giacomo 46,
At the end of Via Colombo, a marked by red and white stripes. 19017; 0187 920 589; www.lalanterna.
org; closed Tue), makes the most of the
subterranean passage emerges at Cross the road, then turn right, taking fish catches of the day.
the harbour 4. Stop here to take in the concrete steps on the left-hand
the views; admire the boys jumping side up through vineyards and scrub
off the rocks and look back at the to the gleaming white Santuario di Below Fishing boats in the clean waters of
houses tumbling higgledy-piggledy Montenero 5, set among the pines. Riomaggiore’s harbour
down the cliff. Then, follow the path At 341 m (1,120 ft), there are great
to the left to see the little beach views along the coast in both
before returning through the tunnel directions. Walk past the restaurant
to Via Colombo. Now the climb to spot the little cog railway – trenino
begins. Take the steps up Via Gramsci, del vino – used to take workers and
and go round a children’s playground grapes up and down the terraces
to Via di Loca, past some handy seats. at harvest time.
More steps, signed Santuario di Energetic hikers can carry on to the
Montenero, lead past terraces filled Colle del Telegrafo (making a 9-km/6-
with rows of pepper and basil plants. mile round trip in total). To get back
Go around the cemetery to the to the car, descend to the road, then
main Manarola to Riomaggiore road, follow it down to Riomaggiore. There
where the views begin to open up – is a bus service, but stop by the visitor
it’s also the start of Sentiero 3a, information office for a timetable first.

Day trip options From Levanto, the easiest option is to relax and take one of the boats that ply
The coastal towns of Levanto, Sestri take the train, which stops at all five the coast from town to town.
Levante and Camogli all make good Cinque Terre villages.
bases for day trips. Explore the Ligurian Apennines
Golfo del Tigullio From Camogli 1, drive through the
Cinque Terre experience
Starting from Levanto w, get a Enjoy the Golfo del Tigullio from chestnut and beech woods to the
flavour of the upper and lower Sestri Levante 0, exploring Rapallo castle at Torriglia 5, then head to
Cinque Terre by exploring the pretty 4, where you can spend time on the timeless village of Pentema 6.
village and harbour of Manarola y, the beach and take a cable-car ride. For exercise, the nearby Lago del
then walk the easy Via dell’Amore Then continue round to the little gem Brugneto 7 is good for a walk.
trail to Riomaggiore u. From here, of Portofino 3, before returning. From Camogli, take SP333 to Gattorna,
hike up through the terraces of vines From Sestri Levante take SP1 to Rapallo, then SP21 to Torriglia. The SP15-1 runs
to the Santuario di Montenero. then SP227 to Portofino, and back. Or, from Pentema to Lago del Brugneto.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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