Page 166 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

164 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Fiesole of San Domenico, home to two
Firenze, Toscana; 50014 important churches. Badia Fiesolana
This important Etruscan, then Roman, (Via della Badia dei Roccettini 9; closed
town was conquered by Florence in Sun and public holidays) is a rare
1125. Its panoramic position and clear example of the Romanesque style in
air induced the Medicis to build a Tuscany. The abbey was consecrated
villa here. At the town centre, Piazza in 1032 and dedicated to the
Mino da Fiesole is overlooked by martyred bishop, St Romulus. Its
14th-century Palazzo Pretorio with serpentine and marble façade was
its handsome double loggia. The retained during 15th-century
Duomo di San Romulo di Fiesole has restorations attributed to architects
an impressive polyptych by Bicci di Brunelleschi and Michelozzo. The
Lorenzo (1373–1452) depicting interior, and the convent next door,
stories of Saint Nicholas. Nearby, the show the rational style of the early
Area Archeologica (closed Tue in Florentine Renaissance and use of
winter) contains a superb Roman the local grey stone, pietra serena.
theatre and baths from the 1st Nearby, the 15th-century Chiesa di
century BC. Evidence of the San Domenico contains works by the
Etruscans is still obvious from the city locally born Renaissance painter and
VISITING FIESOLE walls (Via della Mura Etrusche) and monk Fra Angelico (c1395–1455).
Take the SS65 from Firenze. Turn right the tombs in Via del Bargellino. For ª Head back down the hill on SP53
on Via Salviati and follow signs to Fiesole. sumptuous views of Florence, take towards Florence. Follow signs for SS67
Tourist Information Via San Francesco, by the side of autostrade to Pontassieve. Follow the
The tourist office (Via dei Partigiani 3; the Duomo, up to the convent, brown signs for Vallombrosa, via
055 596 1323; www.comune.fiesole. which stands on the site of the Pelago on SR70, then right on SP83
fi.it) is next to the Area Archeologica. original Roman acropolis. then onto Via Vallombrosana (SP85).
The three museums around the Roman
theatre can be visited on one ticket and From the centre of town, Via Turn right to the Abbey. Park on Via
cover prehistory to the Renaissance. Vecchia Fiesolana leads to the hamlet San Benedetto.
WHERE TO STAY
2 Abbazia di Vallombrosa
FIESOLE
Villa San Michele expensive Vallambrosa, Firenze, Toscana; 50066
Part of this Renaissance villa is attributed Founded in 1036 by a Benedictine monk, the Vallombrosa Abbey has
to Michelangelo. Expect total luxury. a large monastery, church, cloister, tower, sacristy and kitchens. Its
Via Doccia 4, 50014; 055 567 8200; first monks lived as hermits in primitive conditions and the woods
www.villasanmichele.com
around are dotted with their chapels and holy places. This walk is a
ABBAZIA DI VALLOMBROSA good way to understand something of their way of life and history.
Grand hotel Vallombrosa inexpensive
This large hotel has simple rooms A one-hour walking tour (www.vallombrosa.it; open daily) was
and is an excellent base for trekking. Pick up a free map and audio guide remodelled in the 17th century and
Via G.Carducci 2, 50066; 055 862 012;
www.vallombrosalberghi.com from the Centro Visatori 1 (Via San has a rich Baroque interior. The
Benedetto 1; open Apr–Oct daily). Walk trompe l’oeil ceilings are a perfect
Above The green serpentine and white marble back down Via San Benedetto and example of the style. Exit the abbey
façade of Badia Fiesolana Below Consuma Pass, turn right into the road that runs in complex to the right. The road turns
a route through the Tuscan Hills west of Poppi front of the monastery. There is a round to the left and runs into an
Below right Statue of King Victor Emmanuel II large gate to the abbey, Church 2 elegant avenue of trees. On the right
in the Piazza Mino, Fiesole and ancient pharmacy. The church is a small Fish Pond 3, still well

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