Page 195 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 19: In the Shadow of a Volcano 193

Far left Pretty backstreets in the medieval
heart of Montelaterone Left The distant
Piancastagnaio seen beneath Monte Amiata
Below Enoteca Saxa Cuntaria, Piancastagnaio,
with its menu clearly displayed

BIRRA AMIATA
Beer drinkers must try the local brews
from Birra Amiata in Montelaterone
(www.birra-amiata.it). La Bastarda Rossa
is made with Amiata chestnuts and has
a rich red colour, while Aldobrandesca is
a wheat beer made to a medieval recipe.

the town became a stronghold of the through the grove near the Peschiera EAT AND DRINK
Aldobrandeschi family, who built the and the Parco Comunale di San Rocco.
impressive Rocca Aldobrandesca (open ª Return to SP6. The route is CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA
Sat & Sun) – climb the tower for views. signposted “Roma”. Then turn left onto Il Cassero inexpensive
An unpretentious trattoria in the heart
Little of the town’s original walls SP18. At Piancastagnaio turn right into of town offering home-made pasta
remain, except for two original gates: Viale Giuseppe Vespa, through the gate with Amiata mushroom and truffles.
Porta di Castello and Porta Talassese. and park in Piazza Castello. Piazza Cesare Battisti 1, 53023; 0577
ª From Piazza Indipendenza follow 888 950; www.trattoriailcassero.com;
signs to Santa Fiora. Take SP160, then 6 Piancastagnaio closed Tue
turn left onto SP6 at Aiuole. Park in Siena, Toscana; 53025 La Cisterna nel Borgo moderate
Via delle Fontane. Its walls and town gates are mostly Convivial hosts and traditional fare
served with an innovative twist.
gone, but Piancastagnaio’s medieval Via Borgo Maestro 37, Rocca d’Orcia
The Prophet of Amiata townscape endures. The hard stone 53023; 0577 887 280; www.cisterna
In the late 19th century, a man from streets of this mountain town reflect nelborgo.com; closed Mon
Arcidosso, David Lazzaretti, founded the harshness of life in the medieval CASTEL DEL PIANO
a church called Giurisdavidismo, era, when poverty was part of the
which advocated a form of socialism infrastructure. Monumental Rocca Taverna Delle Logge moderate
and universal suffrage. Arrested twice Aldobrandesca (Jun–Aug: open daily) This small restaurant serves exceptional
local food such as tripe and peposo, a
by the alarmed authorities of the new mountain stew. Good wine cellar.
Italian state and excommunicated looms over the town. After exploring V. Della Penna 10, 58033; 0564 973
by the pope, he was finally shot dead the tower, head down Via Cavour to 249; booking advised
by the military police in 1878. A the main square, Piazza Matteotti,
museum in Arcidosso’s Palazzo del where the grand Baroque cathedral, ARCIDOSSO
Comune (Piazza Indipendenza; open Santa Maria Assunta (open daily), first La Tagliola inexpensive
9am–1pm Mon–Fri, 5–8pm Sat & Sun) recorded in 1188, stands almost This place in the newer part of town is
tells the fascinating story of his life. for confirmed mushroom lovers: enjoy
hidden behind a crowd of buildings. them roasted, fried or raw.
ª Head northwest on Viale Giuseppe Via di Centro 3, Loc. Bagnoli 58031;
5 Santa Fiora Vespa and follow SP18 to Abbadia San 0564 967 351; www.latagliola.it
Grosseto, Toscana; 58037 Salvatore. Fork right at roundabout, Il Bagatto inexpensive
One of the prettiest Amiata towns, then left to park in Via Cavour. This pleasant ice-cream place also
Santa Fiora’s castellated centre is serves up quick lunches.
entered through the huge Porta al Viale Davide Lazzaretti, 1, 58031;
Palazzo into Piazza Garibaldi. Piazza 0564 966 207; closed Wed
di San Michele is dominated by a SANTA FIORA
statue of the saint in peperino, a grey- Il Barilotto inexpensive–moderate
brown volcanic tufa rock. In Piazza Generous portions of well-prepared
delle Arcipretura, La Pieve delle meat and game, traditional but with
Sante Flora e Lucilla (open daily) has an innovative twist. Good wine cellar.
blue-and-white glazed terracotta Via Carolina 24, 58037; 0564 977 089;
closed Wed
reliefs by Andrea della Robbia from
1465–90. Via della Pescheria leads to PIANCASTAGNAIO
a pond, constructed in the 12th Enoteca Saxa Cuntaria
century and filled with trout. Santa This place serves rich mountain food
Fiora makes a good base for hiking with gusto. Try the Tuscan lamb soup,
through the forests on Mt Amiata’s and the lemon-scented rabbit with
porcini mushrooms and olives.
western and southwestern slopes. Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 11, 53025;
There’s a pleasant signposted walk 0577 784 104; www.saxacuntaria.it
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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