Page 194 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

192 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Castiglione d’Orcia 3 Montelaterone
Siena, Toscana; 53023 Grosseto, Toscana; 58031
Only a few ruins on a hill remain of Founded around AD 1000, this is one
the fortress that once controlled the of the oldest settlements in the area,
nearby ancient byway, the Via Cassia. with the inner of the two town walls
The heart of the town, built on the dating from the 11th century. Later,
hillside below the fort, is Piazza il from the early 1200s, the town came
Vecchietta, a sloping cobbled square under the protection of mighty Siena.
with a travertine fountain (1618) and Winding streets and vaulted walkways
the town hall which contains a fresco offer an intriguing climb to the ruined
removed from the original fortress. 13th-century keep, Cassero Senese.
From the town centre, take the The Palazzo Pretorio (town hall) from
steep Via della Rocca to the next-door the same period is decorated with
village, Rocca d’Orcia, with a much the coats of arms of Renaissance-era
better preserved bastion, Rocca di families. On the road to Arcidosso
Tentennano (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov– stands the 9th-century Romanesque
Mar: Sat & Sun), and spectacular views church La Pieve di Lamula, largely
of Mt Amiata and the Val d’Orcia. reconstructed in the 12th century.
Above The Peschiera, Santa Fiora, built to supply ª Drive south along SS323 past Poggia ª Return to SP26 and head south to
trout to the Aldobrandeschi court Rosa, then left at SP160, continue past Arcidosso. On arrival, turn left up Via
Seggiano to Castel del Piano. Park at Roma to Piazza Indipendenza and
VISITING MONTE AMIATA Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. park on Corso Toscana.
Getting to Castiglione d’Orcia
From A1 Autostrada Rome-Florence, 2 Castel del Piano Mountain chestnuts
exit at Chiusi-Chianciano Terme towards Grosseto, Toscana; 58033
Chianciano. Take SS146, then SP53. Historically, mountain villagers relied
Turn left at SR2, then right at SS323. Sitting on the slopes of Mt Amiata, upon the chestnut for survival during
Continue to Castiglione d’Orcia, turning Castel del Piano has been inhabited hard times. In autumn, they would
left at SS323, then left up Via Del Fosso. since the Paleolithic era, but up until collect the chestnuts, dry them, then
grind them into flour used to make a
Tourist Information the 14th century, it was a stronghold type of bread. Once poor man’s food,
Castiglione d’Orcia: Viale Guglielmo of the Aldobrandeschi family. Spread the flour is now used to make a rich
Marconi 13, 53023; 0577 887 363; across the slopes, the modern part of cake – castagnaccio – with walnuts
Arcidosso: Piazza Indipendenza, town dwarfs the historic centre, which and pine nuts. The Amiata chestnut
58031; 0564 968 084. Santa Fiora: is best explored from Piazza Giuseppe has a delicious sweet taste when
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 37, 58037; roasted and even has Protected
056 497 7142 Garibaldi, an 18th-century attempt Geographical Indication (PGI).
to emulate Siena’s famous Campo.
WHERE TO STAY On Corso Nasini, named after the
CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA 17th-century family of painters born 4 Arcidosso
Castiglionae Grossola inexpensive here, stands Chiesa di Madonna delle
A large stone 16th-century farmstead Grazie with a beautiful Madonna col Grosseto, Toscana; 58031
set in the country – good for walkers. Bambino by Sano di Pietro (1405–81). Just outside Arcidosso, the Santuario
Via Grossola 4, 53023; 0577 887 537; ª Head west on Via della Croce/SP64. della Madonna delle Grazie (open daily),
www.agriturismogrossola.it Turn left on SP26/Loc. Case Rosse and consecrated in 1348 and expanded in
AROUND MONTELATERONE take a sharp right up Via Nouva to the 16th century, houses works of the
Agriturismo Sorripe inexpensive Montelaterone. Park in Via Nouva. 14th-century Sienese school. In 1121,
This farm stay (with pool), by Mt Amiata’s
woods, harvests olive oil and chestnuts.
Loc. Case Rosse; 0564 964 186;
www.agriturismosorripe.it
AROUND ARCIDOSSO
Park Hotel Colle degli Angeli expensive
This spa resort offers pampered comfort
in the clear mountain air: swimming
pool, sauna, spa and massage.
Loc. Aiuole, 58031; 0564 967 409
SANTA FIORA
Hotel Eden inexpensive
This simple, rustic hotel offers old-
world hospitality.
Via Roma 1, 58037; 0564 97 71 26;
www.hoteledensantafiora.it
Above The twin hamlets of Castiglione d’Orcia and Rocca d’Orcia
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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