Page 197 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 19: In the Shadow of a Volcano 195

Left View of Radicofani, seen from high above
on the Amiata Summit Below San Casciano
dei Bagni, surrounded by pretty countryside
ACTIVITIES IN MONTE AMIATA
The ski season runs 20 Dec–14 Mar and
there are 60 km (37 miles) of ski runs
and trails for cross-country skiers. For
lessons, contact Scuola Sci Amiata
West www.scuolasciamiataovest.it.
To hire a bike to scale the mountain
in summer, or a set of skis to slide
down in winter, try Paolo Sport (Viale
Roma, 4 Abbadia San Salvatore 53021;
0577 778 397).
9 Bagni San Filippo an interesting 14th-century
Siena, Toscana; 53023 polychrome Madonna and Child. EAT AND DRINK
The white limestone waterfall Fosso Walk up Via della Fortezza to the SUMMIT OF AMIATA
Bianco is an extraordinary natural castello (Apr–Sep: open daily; Oct–Mar: La Vetta inexpensive
phenomenon with hot mountain open Thu–Sun) for spectacular views This mountain-top bar/restaurant is
springs steaming with sulphurous of the Val d’Orcia. The tower’s history useful for a quick hot chocolate, grappa
vapours. In 1271, a Florentine monk includes the time when it was or even a hearty mountain meal, such
and candidate for pontiff, Filippo Benizi, occupied by a local gentleman bandit, as polenta with salsiccia (sausage).
fled here to dwell in a nearby cave Ghino di Tacco, in the 13th century. Loc. Vetta Monte Amiata 2, 53021;
0577 789 803
and discovered the spring. The Fosso ª Head east on SP di Sarteano/SS478.
Bianco and hot springs are accessed Take a sharp right onto SP54 and BAGNI SAN FILIPPO
from a marked trail off Via del Bollore. turn left onto SS321, then turn right Osteria Lo Spugnone inexpensive
The curative effects of the water can to Can Casciano and park by the A pleasant osteria with classic Tuscan
dishes such as chunky salami and grilled
be enjoyed at the spa Terme San city walls. vegetables drizzled with olive oil.
Filippo (www.termesanfilippo.com). Via delle Terme 4/6; 0577 872 030; www.
ª Follow road down to SP61 and q San Casciano dei Bagni lospugnone.it; booking recommended
turn right. Take a right turn onto Siena, Toscana; 53040 SAN CASCIANO DEI BAGNI
SR2, then left onto SS478. Park by The Etruscans and Romans enjoyed
the city walls. the hot springs in this area – Augustus La Fornarina inexpensive
Smart, modern bar good for a quick
himself is said to have visited – and snack with a nice glass of wine.
0 Radicofani built baths here. By the Middle Via San Cassiano 18, 53040; 0578 59022
Siena, Toscana; 53040 Ages, a town and castle had been
Visible for miles around, hilltop established in the tranquil landscape.
Radicofani dominated the Roman Via The turret of the castello (built in
Cassia and became a control point 1911, despite appearances) and the
on the road between Rome and bell tower of the Collegiata Church
northern Europe. Etruscan in origin, dominate the town. Enter through
the town came under the sway of Porta di Sopra (Upper Gate) and
the 8th-century Lombard king notice how the medieval structure of
Desiderius. The tight cluster of houses the town remains unchanged. Piazza
are built of Amiata stone and the Matteotti, just below the old town,
Chiesa di San Pietro has two works by forms a natural terrace with great
the studio of Andrea della Robbia and views over southern Tuscany.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS home-made salami from a butcher Conquer a castle or two
Eating local food, such as chestnuts, (macelleria). Drive up to the Summit Castiglione d’Orcia 1 is a good
salami and beer, is a good way to get a of Amiata 8 for a walk and a picnic place to start as it has two castles
feel for a place. Young kids may not like with a view. Then it’s back down to with great views. There’s no fort at
old buildings but they all love castles. Arcidosso 4 for a taste of local beer. Castel del Piano 2, but it’s a fine
medieval town. Montelaterone 3
Gourmet day From Santa Fiora, follow the drive’s has everything – ancient walls, a
Start the day at Santa Fiora 5 and instructions to Piancastagnaio, then go historic centre and a ruined keep.
buy freshly roasted chestnuts in past Abbadia San Salvatore and up to
season or the rich castagnaccio Summit of Abbadia. From there, take Follow the driving instructions to
cake. At Piancastagnaio 6 buy SP81/SP35/SP58 then SP160 to Arcidosso. Montelarone and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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