Page 212 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

210 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Perugia
Umbria; 06100
The capital of Umbria, this ancient Etruscan city grew into a mighty
presence in the medieval period. From the 14th century it was ruled
by a papal legate and, after violent feuding, went to war with the pope
over the price of salt. This walk takes in the full history of Perugia.
A three-hour walking tour in 1278. The Cattedrale di San
From the Porta Nova car park, take Lorenzo 7 (open daily) flanks the
the minimetrò shuttle to Pincetto piazza with the Loggia di Braccio
station and emerge at Via Rupe.Turn (1423) and a statue of Pope Julius III
into Via G Oberdan, then Piazza (1555). Passing the façade of the
Matteotti 1. Walk straight up Via cathedral, turn left, then right into Via
Giuseppe Mazzini, then right into wide Ulisse Rocchi, at the end of which is
Corso Vannucci to La Pasticceria the huge Arco Etrusco 8 in Piazza
Sandri 2, a historic café and pastry Fortebraccio. This imposing structure,
shop specializing in chocolate. once the main gate into the city, was
Opposite is the Collegio del Cambio built in the 3rd century BC. Proceed
Above The Tempio di Sant’Angelo, Perugia, 3 (Mar–Oct: open daily; Sep–Feb: closed up Via Garibaldi, then turn right into
reputedly built over a pagan site Mon & pm), two exquisite rooms of Via Tempio to the round early Christian
the Money Exchange Guild (built Tempio di Sant’Angelo 9 (open daily),
VISITING PERUGIA 1452–57) with frescoes completed in with its 16 columns, built in the
Parking 1500 by Pietro Vannucci (Perugino). 5th–6th centuries. Return to Via
Exit the motorway at Perugia Madonna Further along is the Galleria Garibaldi, turn right into Via Rondine,
Alta, taking the direction “stadio” to Nazionale dell’ Umbria 4 (closed Mon), left into Via Benedetta, then into Via
Porta Nova car park (3,000 spaces).
one of the finest museums in Central Fagiano, which turns into Via
Transport Italy with works by Perugino, Acquedotto 0, an aqueduct (now a
A shuttle train – minimetrò – runs from Pinturicchio and Piero della Francesca. footway) built in 1254 to bring water
the car park at Porta Nova station to
the historic centre at Pincetto. The museum is in the huge Palazzo into the city from Monte Paciano.
dei Priori 5, a civic building built in At the end, turn right into Piazza
the 13th–15th centuries. The entrance Cavallotti, then up Via Maestà delle
WHERE TO STAY in Piazza 4 Novembre, up a semi- Volte and back into Piazza 4 Novembre.
circular staircase, leads into the Sala Stroll down Corso Vanucci to Piazza
PERUGIA dei Notari (open daily; Oct–May: closed Italia q for views over the abbey of
Arte Hotel inexpensive
A bright, modern hotel, just off the main Mon). Its Gothic portal is surmounted San Pietro to Assisi in the distance.
road, with a contemporary art theme. by a griffin and a lion, the city’s In 1540, the ruling papacy sought
Strada Trasimeno Ovest 159, 06132 ; 075 symbols, and the hall is supported by to quell the rebellious populace by
517 9247; www.artehotelperugia.com eight massive arches, fully painted in building a huge fortress over their
Montecorneo Country House the late 1200s with biblical scenes. In houses. On the unification of Italy in
inexpensive–moderate the centre of the piazza is the 1860, Umbrians, free of papal rule, tore
These apartments are in three cottages Fontana Maggiore 6, a majestic down the building and erected their
in the grounds of an 18th-century villa. 25-sided fountain sculpted by father provincial offices instead. On the west
Strada dei Loggi 136, 06126; 075 388
230; www.montecorneo.com and son Nicola and Giovanni Pisano side of this building, an escalator
Castello di Monterone
Residenza d’Epoca expensive Below View of Rocca Maggiore, set on the hill above Assisi
A chance to stay in a real 13th-century
castle – but in luxury – with frescoes
and other original architectural details.
Strada Montevile 3, 06126; 075 572
4214; www.castellomonterone.it
ASSISI
Hotel La Fortezza inexpensive
Value-for-money hotel in the historic
centre, with terrace views and free wi-fi.
Vicolo della Fortezza 19/B, 06081; 075
812 418; www.lafortezzahotel.com
Le Dimore di San Crispino expensive
A historic residence with elegant and
refined apartments and good views.
Via Sant’Agnese 11, 06081; 075 804
3257; www.assisibenessere.it

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Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont