Page 213 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 21: Umbria’s Verdant Valleys 211

decends into Via Baglioni, where St Francis of Assisi
shells of houses still remain in the Born around 1181 in Assisi, this
foundations of the Rocca Paolina w. high-spirited son of a wealthy
Keeping to the left on the way down, cloth merchant had a vision that
called him to a spiritual path and
exit the underground maze through a life of poverty. He wandered
Porta Marzia and turn left into Via far and wide, inspiring followers
Marzia to Via Guglielmo Oberdan and founding the order of Friars
and the entrance to the minimetrò. Minor in 1210. His visions and
For those with a sweet tooth, the profound faith changed the
Perugina Museo (Viale San Sisto, San Sisto course of Christian history and
he was canonized only two years
06132; open Mon–Fri; www.perugina.it), just after his death in 1226. St Francis
outside town, reveals the processes (San Francesco) is the patron
involved in making the city’s delicious saint of Italy.
chocolates, including the famous Baci.
ª Turn left on Autostradale Perugia-A1
towards Roma-Assisi, take Foligno exit 2 Assisi
onto SS75 to Assisi, exit Ospedalicchio. Perugia, Umbria; 06081
Follow signs to Assisi on SS147. Piazza With an average of 4–5 million
Matteotti has an underground car park. visitors every year, Assisi is one of the Above The Romanesque-Gothic Basilica di
most important pilgrim sites in San Francesco, Assisi
Italy. It is a small town that
displays its artistic and
Tempio di Sant’Angelo religious patrimony well, but
its back streets and alleyways EAT AND DRINK
still merit exploration. The
central Piazza del Comune was PERUGIA
VIA DEL TEMPIO
VIA SPERANDIO
the original Roman forum and La Pasticceria Sandri inexpensive
A Perugian institution, this splendid
the splendid columns of the café has been serving the finest
1st-century BC Temple of chocolates and aperitifs since 1947.
V I A A N D R E A D A P E R U G I A
Minerva have been retained in Corso Vannucci 32, 06123;
VIA BENEDETTA
the façade of the church Santa 075 572 4112
V I A Z E F F E R I NO FA I N A
Maria sopra Minerva. The Da Cesarino moderate
German writer Goethe (1749– By the Fontana Maggiore, enjoy typical
V I A G í U S E P P E G A R í B A L D I
VIA FRANCESCO INNAMORATI
1832) thought it was the most Umbrian delights such as penne alla
PIAZZA norcina (creamy sausage pasta).
LUPATTELLI beautiful building in Italy. Piazza 4 Novembre 5, 06123; 075 572
V I A FAGI A NO
The town’s most visited site,
V I A E L C E D I S OT T O
Via 8974; closed Wed
Acquedotto the Basilica di San Francesco,
V I A A LE S S A N D R O PA S O L I
PIAZZA was commenced immediately Trattoria del Borgo expensive
FORTEBRACCIO This antique trattoria in the centre of
Arco
V I A A P P I A V I A CESARE BATTISTI in 1228. In two parts, the Try cappellacci di capriolo (venison pasta)
0 metres 250 after St Francis’ canonization Perugia is one of the finest in Umbria.
0 yards 250 VIA ULISSE ROCCHI Etrusco lower and upper, the church or Chianina beef with porcini.
Via Sposa 23/A, 06123; 075 572 0390;
contains frescoes by Cimabue,
PIAZZA Giotto, Simone Martini and www.trattoriadelborgoperugia.it
CAVALLOTTI ASSISI
Cattedrale di PIAZZA Pietro Lorenzetti that are the
DANTI
San Lorenzo
Fontana cornerstone of pre- Al Camino Vecchio inexpensive
PIAZZA IV Maggiore
V I A P R I O R I
NOVEMBRE Renaissance art. The Basilica di Expect large portions of freshly prepared
Palazzo dei Priori Galleria Santa Chiara – St Clare was a food in this good-value trattoria.
Nazionale
Collegio del Cambio dell’Umbria contemporary of St Francis – Via San Giacomo 7, 06081; 075 812
Pincetto 936; www.bellaumbria.net/
La Pasticceria Sandri VIA GIUSEPPE is a fascinating Gothic trattoria-Alcaminovecchio
VIA POMPEO
MAZZINI
PELLINI
extravagance. Nearby, the
Piazza Matteotti Trattoria Pallotta moderate
VIA POMPEO 12th-century Romanesque Enjoy the rustic atmosphere and
V I A D E L L A C U PA CORSO VANU CCI V I A B A G L I O N I Cattedrale di San Rufino is Umbrian cuisine – thick strangozzi
PELLINI
pasta drizzled with olive oil and truffles.
where both Francis and Clare
Piazza Italia VIA MARZ I A VIA GUGLIELMO OBER D A N were baptized. Vicolo della Volta Pinta 3, 06081; 075
812649; www.pallottaassisi.it
ª Turn right out of car park
This fine restaurant near San Rufino
Santuario delle Carceri/SP251,
serves excellent dishes such as baked
Rocca Paolina and take a slight right at Via Osteria Pozzo della Mensa moderate
VIA INDIPENDENZA
following brown signs for radicchio with pecorino and walnuts.
Eremo delle Carceri. Park after Via del Pozzo della Mensa; 075 815 5236;
the left curve on the road. www.osteriapozzodellamensa.it
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45
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