Page 215 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 21: Umbria’s Verdant Valleys 213

EAT AND DRINK
6 Trevi from Virgil (70–19 BC) to Lord Byron
Perugia, Umbria; 06039 (1788–1804) and from Poussin (1594– SPELLO
Like a conical snail shell of medieval 1665) to Corot (1796–1875). The park, Porto Venere moderate
buildings, Trevi coils around a spur in now privately owned, is ideal for This charming restaurant serves good
the Valle Umbra. The town is enclosed children to explore and feed the ducks. food, including asparagus, porcini and
truffles with home-made pasta.
by two circuits of walls and entered The area is known for its olive oil and Via Torri di Properzio 37; 0742 301 896;
through Porta di Lago into Piazza there are several frantoio (olive mills) www.ristoranteportavenere.it
Mazzini. At its centre, the highest around town worth visiting. La Bastiglia moderate
point, stands the Duomo San Emiliano The SP458 leads southeast from the This highly acclaimed restaurant offers
with its 11th-century façade. St centre of Campello sul Clitunno, turn innovative Umbrian cuisine and has an
Emiliano was thrown to the lions, but left again and follow signs to the tiny impressive wine cellar. Also has rooms.
they licked his feet and face – look for fortified village of Castello di Campello Via Salnitraria 15, 06038; 0742 651
the carvings. The Museo Civilità dell’ Alto. Founded in the 10th century by 277; www.labastiglia.com; closed Tue
Ulivo (Largo Don Bosco; open daily), set the Baron of Burgundy, the village BEVAGNA
in a former Franciscan convent, reveals passed to Federico Barbarossa, Holy Osteria Il Podesta moderate
the history of local olive cultivation. Roman Emperor, 200 years later. Set Traditional central osteria with a cosy
ª Head south on SP425 and turn left amid slopes cloaked in olive groves, it atmosphere and vaulted dining room.
after 5 km (3 miles) for Campello sul has well-preserved 13th-century walls. Corso Matteotti 67, 06031; 0742 361
832; closed Wed
Clitunno. The Tempietto is on the right, ª Return down the hill and turn left
not well marked and with little parking. into exSS3/Via Flaminia to Spoleto. TREVI
Turn right at Viale Giacomo Matteotti Cantina Del Bartoccio inexpensive
(signed Spoleto), and left for car park. On a small piazza, this simple
restaurant offers typical Umbrian
dishes and a good house wine.
The Via Francigena di Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini, 5A, 06039;
San Francesco 345 040 3513
This pilgrim trail follows the paths
that wayfarers used on the journey CAMPELLO SUL CLITUNNO
from Austria to Umbria and on to Parco del Clitunno Trattoria moderate
Lazio, to visit the places where St Surrounded by the lake and trees, with
Francis lived and worked. After the a play area for kids – fish is the speciality.
fall of Rome in the 5th century AD, Loc. Fonti del Clitunno, 06042
roads were no longer maintained Campello; 0743 521 052; closed Wed
and were unsafe. Wheeled traffic Ristorante Fonti del
was less viable so travellers went on Clitunno moderate
foot and mule, resting at pilgrim Right by the springs, this traditional
stops along the way. This drive osteria provides good Umbrian food.
roughly follows the trail from Assisi Via Flaminia 7, 06042 Campello; 0743
to Arrone, part of the Via Francigena 275 057; www.fontidelclitunno.it
di San Francesco. Religious and non-
religious pilgrims still walk the Via Below left The fortified hamlet of Castello di
Above Clocktower and Palazzo Comunale, Francigena, which is fairly well marked. Campello Alto Below right The Tempietto del
Piazza Mazzini, Trevi Clitunno, an inspiration for Neo-Classical design
7 Campello sul Clitunno
Perugia, Umbria; 06042
A popular holiday destination in the
Roman era, this area’s later strategic
importance is evident in the medieval
castles and forts dotted over its hills.
Just outside Campello sul Clitunno,
the Tempietto del Clitunno, decorated
with Byzantine frescoes, is a gem of a
late-Roman or early Christian church,
whose perfect proportions and lavish
Corinthian column screens inspired
16th-century architect Andrea Palladio.
At the Fonti del Clitunno, another
500 m (1,500 ft) further along the SS3,
crystal clear water gushes from the
hillside into a series of lakes and ponds,
creating an ambience of rare beauty
that has inspired poets and painters
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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