Page 214 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

212 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above View of Trevi, topped by the spire of the
Duomo San Emiliano Above right Entrance to 3 Eremo delle Carceri ª From car park, turn right, then left
the secluded and peaceful Eremo delle Carceri Perugia, Umbria; 06081 at Via Roma, then right at roundabout
Below Pathway through the forest, Eremo Clinging onto the steep slope of onto SS75 towards Foligno. Turn right
delle Carceri Monte Subasio, this is a 14th-century into SS316 to Bevagna. Turn right to
religious sanctuary where silence is park off Via Alcide De Gasperi.
required. Wander through medieval
passageways and under low 5 Bevagna
archways to reach, at the heart of the Perugia, Umbria; 06031
ancient hermitage, the Grotto of St Once the important Roman city of
Francis who prayed here in the 13th Mevania, Bevagna today has a more
WHERE TO STAY
century. Outside, cross over a bridge medieval air about it. The central
SPELLO into the forest to see the Tree of the Piazza Silvestri is flanked by the
La Corte del Conte inexpensive Birds, a holm oak where the saint is Gothic Palazzo dei Consoli and the
This minimalist boutique hotel has said to have preached to the birds. 12th-century Romanesque Church of
been recently renovated and has a Look for the sign of the cross San Michele Arcangelo (both open
superb cocktail bar and restaurant.. scratched on boulders along the path daily), notable for the bas-reliefs and
Piazza Vallegloria 13, 06038; 0742 301 by pilgrims. The tranquil hermitage is mosaics on its portal. Mosaics of
135; www.lacortedelconte.com
an ideal spot for a walk in the woods. fabulous sea creatures, once the floor
Hotel Palazzo Bocci moderate ª Continue uphill on SP251 to go over of the Roman baths, are visible from
Lavish palazzo in the historic centre
with frescoed ceilings and large rooms. Mt Subasio towards San Silvestro (faster outside Via Porta Guelfa. The Museo
Outdoor terrace in the summer. route: SS75 towards Foligno and exit Comunale di Bevagna (closed Mon)
Via Cavour 17, 06038; 0742 301 021; Spello). Turn sharp right at Via Subasio/ displays Roman funerary urns and tells
www.palazzobocci.com SP249 towards Spello centre. At the the history of medieval guilds. It is also
BEVAGNA stop take SS75, then turn right at Via possible to book classes in paper,
Il Chiostro di Bevagna inexpensive Martin Luther King for parking. making, candle-making and weaving.
Great value for money in the historic ª Take SS316 south and after the
centre: enter through the frescoed 4 Spello bridge turn left to Montefalco. From
cloister almost opposite the Duomo. Perugia, Umbria; 06038 there follow signs for Trevi, onto
Corso Matteottti 107, 06031; 0742 361 Called Hispellum in the 1st century SP447 and over the motorway. Follow
987; www.ilchiostrodibevagna.com;
private parking included BC, this delightful town, draped around signs for Trevi “centro” and park in
a low ridge, still has some important Piazza Garibaldi.
Hotel Palazzo Brunamonti inexpensive Roman monuments. The entry gate
In the town centre, this lavish historic
residence has excellent-size rooms and Porta Consolare, the Piazza della
attentive staff – a good-value hotel. Repubblica, originally the forum, and
Corso Matteotti 79, 06031; 0742 361 932; the magnificent Gate of Venus on the
www.brunamonti.com; secure parking western side, date from the Augustan
TREVI era. The highest part of the town is a
Natalini moderate knot of medieval lanes and houses.
This farm stay, at the foot of Trevi’s hill, The cathedral, the 13th-century
has well-restored studio apartments Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore (open
and rooms. There is a restaurant daily), has a Romanesque portal and
on-site and bicycles for hire.
Via Casa Bozzi 4, 06039 San Lorenzo frescoes by Perugino, but the highlight
di Trevi; 0742 399 472; www. is the superb Cappella Bella, painted by
agriturismonatalini.it Umbrian artist Pinturicchio in 1500.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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