Page 217 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 21: Umbria’s Verdant Valleys 215

0 Abbazia di San Santo Stefano, in Precetto, was built
Pietro in Valle over an older crypt where bodies
Ferentillo, Terni, Umbria; 05034 were naturally mummified. It makes a
This abbey (now a luxury hotel) was fascinating, if ghoulish, display: Museo
founded in the 8th century by the delle Mummie (open daily). Ferentillo’s
Lombard Duke of Spoleto. The duke cliffs make it a centre for the sport of
had a vision of St Peter and built a falesia (free-climbing) – climbing
church on the site of a 4th-century without equipment; contact Il
hermitage. He took monastic vows Viaggiotto (0744 58741; www.ditt.it).
ª Return to SR209 and turn left.
At Fontechiaruccia, turn left at the
roundabout for Arrone on SP4. Park
in Piazza Garibaldi. Above Narrow medieval street in the heart
of Spoleto Left The fortified town of Ferentillo
Mountain Adventures at the mouth of the Val di Nera
The combination of mountains and
rivers makes for exciting sports such
as white-water rafting. Contact Val
Nerina Adventure (348 771 1170;
www.pangea-italia.com) or Rafting EAT AND DRINK
Marmore (330 753 420; www. SPOLETO
raftingmarmore.com). Or try a thrilling,
guided mountain-bike tour. Contact La Lanterna inexpensive
Umbrian Mountain Bike (0744 287 A homely, central trattoria; try strangozzi
686; www.umbriainmountainbike.it). pasta with courgettes and saffron.
Via della Trattoria 6, 06049; 0743
and is buried in an exquisite tomb in 49815; closed Wed
the church (open Apr–Sep: 10am–1pm Pentagramma expensive
and 3–5pm Sat & Sun, 3–5pm Mon–Fri; w Arrone Celebrated restaurant serving top
Oct–Mar by appointment: www. Terni, Umbria; 05031 regional cooking with great wines.
sanpietroinvalle.com). The church also Perched on a rocky precipice, Arrone Piazza della Libertà, 06049; 0743 223
has frescoes by the Umbrian School, defended the Valnerina Pass between 141; www.ristorantepentagramma.
which preceded Giotto by 150 years. Abruzzo and the Duchy of Spoleto. In com; closed Mon; booking essential
ª Return to SR209 and head south. the lower town is the 16th-century ABBAZIA DI SAN PIETRO
At Ferentillo Precetto, turn left on Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (open IN VALLE
SP74, then 2nd left onto Via della daily) with fine frescoes. The walk up Hora Media moderate
Circonvallazione. Park in Piazza Mazzini. to the medieval upper town is tough Dine in the refectory on quality fare, well
but rewarding. Built as a 10th-century cooked – pheasant, trout and truffles.
q Ferentillo fortification, the houses nestle around Via Case Sparse 4, 05034; 0744 780
950; closed Tue & lunch
Terni, Umbria; 05034 the piazza with its Torre degli Olivi
Two castles, Matterella and Precetto, (Tower of Olives). The 12th-century ARRONE
guard the Val di Nera at Ferentillo, Gothic Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista Trattoria Rossi moderate
where the valley narrows. They were (the key holder lives next door) contains Expect classic Umbrian cuisine at this
popular family restaurant specializing
constructed in the 12th century to colourful frescoes depicting the martyr in river crayfish, truffle and steak.
protect the Abbazzia di San Pietro in San Sebastian, the patron saint of Voc. Isola, 705031; 0744 388372;
Valle. The 16th-century Church of plague victims, wounded by arrows. www.rossihotelristorante.it
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the drive’s instructions, but don’t Medieval art
These valley towns were strongholds stop at Trevi. Return the same way. Start from Perugia 1, exploring its
in Roman times, hence their many famous art gallery and palazzos. Next
architectural sights and works of art. In St Francis’ footsteps stop is Assisi 2, for its Gothic
Spend a day in the shoes of St frescoes in the Basilica di San
Roman holiday Francis. Start at Assisi 2, to view the Francesco. Spello 4 also has some
Enjoy the sights at the Roman town town where the young man grew glorious 15th–16th century frescoes
of Spello 4, then head for Bevagna up. Buy food supplies, then head for by Perugino and Pinturicchio, as does
5 to see the artifacts in the town the Eremo delle Carceri 3, where he Spoleto 8.
museum. Lunch at Campello 7, spent some time. Have a picnic on a
with its Classical church and lovely walk through the beautiful forest. Follow the drive instructions from
scenery, before stopping at Spoleto Perugia to Assisi. Take the SS147 and
8, with its collection of fascinating Follow the drive’s instructions from SS75 to Spello. Take the SS75 from
Roman architecture. Assisi to the hermitage and back. Spello and then SS3 to Spoleto.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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