Page 232 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

230 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

pioneered the use of unusual
materials such as burlap, pumice and
tar. His work can be seen in the Palazzo
Albizzini (open daily) and ex-Seccatoio
Tabacco (www.fondazioneburri.org).
Autumn and spring are good times
to hunt for truffles. Search for the
elusive tubers with Saverio Bianconi
(075 851 1591; www.tartufibianconi.it),
then eat your finds back at his farm.
ª Take Viale V Veneto southwest, turn
left under railway, then right on SP106
to Pietralunga. Park near main square.
2 Pietralunga
Above Roman Amphitheatre in front of Perugia, Umbria; 06026
Gubbio’s Palazzo dei Consoli Below Pretty 1 Città di Castello Surrounded by the Apennines, this
Pietralunga seen from the road into town Perugia, Umbria; 06012 small mountain town has an old
The Roman historian Pliny the Younger fortress that dates back to Roman
WHERE TO STAY had a villa near Città di Castello, then times, but its most significant feature
called Tifernum, and wrote in AD 96 is the pentagonal 8th-century Rocco
CITTÀ DI CASTELLO of "this welcoming plain surrounded Longobardo, which dominates the
Residenza Antica Canonica moderate by mountains crowned with wild central piazza. TheSanta Maria church
Beautifully converted former presbytery
in the town centre. All rooms and suites forests”. Little has changed to this day. nearby was also built in the 8th cen-
are former monks’ cells. There are self- Ringed by medieval walls, this is a tury, and restored in the 18th cen tury.
catering facilities and free parking. quiet and prosperous country town The narrow medieval streets winding
Via San Florido 23, 06012; 075 852 with elegant shops, good restaurants around behind the church offer occa-
3298; www.anticacanonica.it
and some fine public architecture, sional views down the Carpinella Valley.
Hotel Le Mura moderate such as the solid Palazzo Comunale ª Descend from town and take SP201
Built into the town walls, La Mura is a (1322–38), built by Angelo da Orvieto. south, then turn left onto SP204. At
small, comfy hotel that is conveniently
located. Good staff and a pleasant Another local, Alberto Burri (1915– the roundabout, turn left onto SS219
restaurant serving Umbrian cuisine. 95) was internationally renowned for Gubbio. Follow signs for “Centro”
Via Borgo Farinario 24, 06012; 075 852 as a sculptor and abstract artist who and park in Viale del Teatro Romano.
1070; www.hotellemura.it; guest parking
GUBBIO 3 Gubbio
Bosone Palace moderate
This is a lovely central 14th-century Perugia, Umbria; 06024
palazzo – Dante and Petrarch once An unspoilt medieval citadel with an impressive Roman theatre,
stayed here. It also has a fine restaurant. Gubbio’s earlier heritage is revealed by its Eugubine Tablets. These
Via XX Settembre, 06024; 075 922
0688; www.hotelbosone.com spell out observances and rituals in Latin, Etruscan and Umbrian
and are the only decipherable record of the original Umbrians.
Tre Ceri moderate
Just inside the old walls and handy for
car parks, this comfortable residence is A two-hour walking tour
easy walking to Gubbio’s main sights. an elbow in the water. Walk up the
Via Benamati 6/8, 06024; 075 922 109; The Roman theatre 1 was built at gentle slope of Via dei Consoli, past
www.treceri.it the end of the 1st century BC and is stylish leather goods and ceramic
still used for summer concerts. From shops, to the splendid Piazza Grande
here, cross Viale del Teatro Romano 4. This beautiful square, at the heart
and walk through a covered passage. of Gubbio is flanked on three sides
Turn left into Via Cavour to Piazza G by historic architecture and has
Bruno 2, lined with houses built great views of the valley below.
from pale Gubbio stone. Turn right The Romanesque-Gothic Palazzo
into Via dei Consoli, over a small bridge dei Consoli is home to the Museo
across the Carmignano – just a stream Civico (open daily) and the seven bronze
at this point. Then it’s a short walk up Eugubine Tablets (3rd century BC).
to Lago del Vescovado and the simple Just past the main square, the road
16th-century Fontana dei Matti 3 becomes Via XX Settembre. On the
(Fountain of the Madmen). It is said left there is a sign for “La ascensori”
that true citizens of Gubbio must run (lift), up to the Museo Diocesano 5
around the fountain three times – with (open daily), with a modest collection

230-235_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 230 06/10/17 2:59 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont