Page 233 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 23: The Stone of the Apennines 231

EAT AND DRINK
0 metres 300 Basilica di
V I A DEL FOSSO V I A G A B R I E L L I VIA DEL CAMIGNANO 0 yards 300 Sant Ubaldo CITTÀ DI CASTELLO
Vineria del Vasaio moderate
Cosy underground restaurant in a
restored pottery. The wine plays an
important part in the menu and there is
wine sampling by the glass with snacks.
Fontana Via della Cacioppa 4, 06012;
dei Matti Palazzo
Ducale 075 852 3281
Piazza G Bruno Palazzo Duomo
VIA DEI CONSOLI
dei Consoli Preludio moderate
Piazza Grande Museo Enjoy classic Italian fine dining,
VIA CAVOUR
Loggia Diocesano including gnocchetti with truffles,
dei Tiratori
swordfish tartare and beef fillet in
PIAZZA QUARANT A MARTIRI VIA D E L L A R E P U B B L I C A V I A X X S E T T E M B R E Barolo sauce with caramelized pears.
Roman
PALMERUCCI
Theatre V I A C A I R O L I C O R S O G A R I B A L D I Corso V Emanuele 42, 06012; 075 855
VIA
6469; www.ristorantepreludio.it;
VIA
FABIANI
closed Tue
V I A B R U N O B U O Z Z I V I A A L L E N D E VIA METTEOTTI V I A R E P O S AT I VI A MA F FEI VIA Romana San Le Logge moderate–expensive
V I A S A F F I
VIA AQUILANTE BARBI
VIALE DEL TEATRO ROMANO VIA MAT TEOTTI
VIA SAVELLI DELLA PORTA I
VIA ARMANNI VIA NELL
This offers sophisticated variations on
Cable Car
well-known local specialities including
Porta
truffles. Try the tagliatelle di castagne
Agostino
(chestnut flour). Extensive wine list.
P Matteotti, Logge Bufalini, 06012; 075
864 2304; www.ristorantelelogge.com
GUBBIO
of religious art, and Gubbio’s Duomo, Repubblica. Turn left towards Piazza Ristorante Picchio Verde moderate
perhaps the only one in Italy without Quaranta Martiri (Piazza of the 40 This family-run restaurant has served
a piazza. Next to the cathedral is the Martyrs) a grim reminder of a World typical Umbrian dishes for generations.
splendid Palazzo Ducale (closed Mon), War II atrocity in which the Nazis Via Savelli Della Porta 65, 06024 ; 075
built in 1480 by the Duke of Urbino, executed 40 people to avenge 927 6649 ; www.ristorantepicchio
verde.com; closed Tue
Federico da Montefeltro. Its elegant partisan actions. The piazza includes
courtyard echoes the one in the Ducal a public garden and the impressive Alla Balestra moderate
Palace in Urbino (see p243) – enjoy two-storey Loggia dei Tiratori 9, Good-value, central restaurant serving
Gubbian delicacies – try Umbricelli alla
the Giardini Pensili (Hanging Gardens), home of the Woollen Workers’ Guild norcina con tartufo (truffle pasta).
where a small bar provides drinks and a medieval hospital. These days Via della Republica 41, 06012; 075 927
and snacks and stunning views. it often hosts an artisan market and 3810; www.ristoranteallabalestra.it
Amble down the narrow lanes back displays of art. The piazza is the site All’Antico Frantoio moderate
to Via XX Settembre, and carry on to for Gubbio’s weekly market (Tue). Popular eatery on the walkway to the
the towering Porta Romana 6. From here it is a short walk back Roman amphitheatre specializing in
Outside the walls is the Chiesa di San to Via Cavour and the car park. wood-fired pizza and home-made pasta.
Via del Teatro Romano, 06012; 075 922
Agostino (Saint Augustine), with 15th- ª From Viale del Teatro Romano, 1780; www.allanticofrantoio.it
century frescoes in its apse. follow signs to Scheggia. Exit town via
Just uphill from the church is the a medieval gate with traffic lights onto Below left The crenellated Palazzo dei
cable car station 7, which takes SS298. At Scheggia, take Via Flaminia/ Consoli, Gubbio Below right View of the
passengers to the top of the hill and SP3 left to Cagli. Park in main square. thickly wooded hills around Gubbio
the Basilica di Sant Ubaldo 8, where
the 12th-century patron of Gubbio
still lies in state above the altar.
Return to the Porta Romana and
take Corso Garibaldi to Via della
Festival of the Ceri
On May 15 each year, St Ubaldo’s day,
Gubbio goes a little crazy. Ceri is Italian
for candles, and the large wooden
totems carried around town look like
candles. (Some say they echo the
phallic symbols used to worship
Ceres, the Roman god of the harvest.)
Each “candle” represents a saint and
teams of enthusiastic men take it in
turns to carry them up to the Basilica
di Sant Ubaldo in a sort of race.
230-235_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 231 21/09/17 2:38 pm