Page 235 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 23: The Stone of the Apennines 233

Visiting the Grotte di Frasassi in the fascinating Museo della Carta or
To visit the caves, buy a ticket from the Paper Museum (closed Mon) in the
the ticket office (0732 90080; www. San Domenico complex.
frasassi.com) in the car park in Largo
Leone XII, as access to the caves is via ª Take Via Dante, which joins SS76
a ravine that can only be reached by towards Ancona. Exit for Sassoferrato
bus. The bus runs every 12 minutes Grotte Frasassi/Genga after 10 km (6
and the fare is included in the cost of miles). Park in Largo Leone XII's car park.
the entry ticket. Tours take just over
one hour, and cover a walk of 1.5 km 8 Grotte di Frasassi
(1 mile). Enthusiasts can take the
longer three-hour tour. It is pretty Ancona, Le Marche; 60040 Above View of the unspoilt verdant hills
chilly inside the caves and a light Speleologists regard the limestone of Le Marche
jacket and sensible shoes are caves at Frasassi as among the best in
recommended for visitors. EAT AND DRINK
Europe. They are a vast complex of
caverns, some the size of cathedrals, SASSOFERRATO
with amazing formations of stalagmites La Taverna di Bartolo inexpensive
and stalactites, crystalline lakes and Enjoy hearty rustic food such as
gleaming alabaster arabesques. strozzapreti taleggio e radicchio (home-
The caves were only discovered made pasta with taleggio and red
after World War II, when speleologists chicory) in the main square.
Piazza Matteoti 7, 60041; 0732 958 067;
abseiled into the vast empty space of closed Mon
the Ancona Abyss. They were opened La Rocca moderate
to the public in 1974 and the complex The garden terrace is a popular spot
can now be entered from ground in summer, offering classical regional
level. If caving does not appeal, then cooking and pizzas in the evening.
just along the road there is a Roman Via Cardinal Albornoz 3, 60041; 0732
bridge with a small medieval tower 95444; closed Tue
and gate. This leads to the beautiful FABRIANO
Romanesque abbey of San Vittore Nonna Rina Ristorantino moderate
delle Chiuse. Built in the 10th century, This simple restaurant has a quiet
this simple but supremely elegant ambiance and offers traditional local
dishes served with a modern twist. It
building is an architectural delight. also features vegetarian and vegan
Above Series of brick-built arched The road to the caves runs through menu options.
alleyways, Sassoferrato a ravine from where visitors can drive Piazza Garibaldi 25, 60044 ; 0732 040
on to the town of Genga, which sits 930; closed Mon
7 Fabriano perfectly preserved, as though in a Da Lucignolo
Ancona, Le Marche; 60041 time capsule. Note how the houses This restaurant offers home cooking –
Its origins possibly go back to Roman have been built into the bedrock. especially grilled meats – handily
times, but Fabriano only came to ª From Genga, follow directions to close to the main square.
Via Filippo Corridoni 22, 60044; 0732
prominence in the Middle Ages. The Arcevia on SP15. Turn right onto 628 227; closed Wed
magnificent Palazzo del Podestà SP360. Near Arcevia, on Viale Martiri
(1255) and Fontana Maggiore (1285) della Resistenza, take the left fork to
in Piazza del Comune testify to its “Centro” and park outside the walls Below Palazzo del Podestà and the Fontana
coming of age. Behind the altar in in Via Mazzini. Maggiore, Fabriano
the Baroque Cattedrale di San
Venanzio (open daily) are some
wonderful 12th-century frescoes of
the Martyrdom of St Lawrence. One
of the most important painters of
the early Renaissance, Gentile da
Fabriano (1370–1427), was born here
and his spectacular masterpiece,
Adoration of the Magi, now in the
Uffizi, Florence, is considered the
high point of International Gothic.
Fabriano earned a reputation as one
of the first places to make high-quality
paper and the town is still known
for its fine watermarked paper. The
ancient processes of making paper
by hand from rags are demonstrated
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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