Page 236 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

234 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above Fields and vineyards on the hills
around Cupramontana Above right The 9 Arcevia historic centre of medieval and
pretty central piazza, Cupramontana Ancona, Le Marche; 60011 Renaissance buildings is through the
Below The Porta della Croce, the main The old fortress, or rocca, of Arcevia Porta della Croce. The Chiesa di San
entrance to Serra de’ Conti at the top of the town was destroyed Michele is a fine Romanesque-Gothic
long ago and only a few fragments building that is both simple and
remain in what is now a pleasant park. beautiful. The nearby church of Santa
From here, the main street (Via Mazzini) Maria Maddalena provides a stunning
leads through the town, past grand Baroque contrast inspired by the
WHERE TO STAY IN JESI
palazzos to the main square, Piazza 15th-century architect Borromini.
Hotel Federico II moderate Garibaldi. Further along, the Collegiata ª Leave on SP11 past Montecarrotto,
This modern hotel may lack character di San Medaro (open daily) has two fine and Moie. At Moie, take SS76 toward
but it is on the edge of town and has paintings by Signorelli and a ceramic Ancona. Exit toward Castelbellino/
plenty of facilities such as parking,
pools, gym, sauna and a restaurant. altarpiece by Giovanni della Robbia Monte Roberto and follow signs to
Via Ancona 100, 60035; 073 121 1079; (1469–1529), whose fluency exceeded Castelbellino on SP11. Head for
www.hotelfederico2.it that achieved by previous artists. “Centro” and park in Via Giacomo
Hotel dei Nani moderate ª Descend from Arcevia toward Leopardi, just under the town walls.
Another modern hotel with plenty of Senigallia on to SP360. Follow signs
facilities on the edge of the old town. to Serra de' Conti. Park below the city Castelli di Jesi
Viale del Lavoro 34, 60035; 073 148 46; walls at Porta della Croce. In the hinterland west of Jesi,
www.hoteldeinani.it
nearly every hilltop is fortified in
Notti sulle Mura 0 Serra de’ Conti some way. Known as Castelli di
This tiny B&B offers colourful and Ancona, Le Marche; 60030 Jesi, these strongholds, which
smallish rooms in a characterful include Cupramontana, Staffolo,
building close to the historic centre. One of the few brick-walled towns in Monte Roberto, Castelbellino and
Via Spaldi 16, 60035; 329 764 55 33; the area, Serra de’ Conti faces west Maiolati Spontini, are synonymous
www.nottisullemura.it across the Misa valley. Entry to the with the vineyards that produce
Verdicchio, the famous white wine
of the area. This is a light, dry, straw-
coloured wine that is often served
in fish-shaped bottles.
q Cupramontana
Ancona, Le Marche; 60034
A town within a town, Cupramontana’s
old town is tightly clustered around
its main piazza and church, while the
rest of the town sits comfortably
spaced around the old walls. The
town has Roman origins (Cupra
was a goddess of fertility), but its
architecture is mostly Neo-Classical.
The capital of the Castelli di Jesi area,
Cupramontana is also the centre
of the wine-producing area. It is
surrounded by vineyards, and serious
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

230-235_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 234 21/09/17 11:19 am
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