Page 237 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 23: The Stone of the Apennines 235

wine buffs might like to visit the Wine
Label Museum (hours variable).
ª Head northeast on SP9, under the
SS76, then cross the Esino on SP502.
Join SP76 into Jesi. Park on the street.

Local Musicians
Giovanni Battista Pergolesi (1710–36)
was a celebrated musician who
was born in Jesi. For someone who
died at 26, he made an enormous
contribution to music, virtually
inventing opera buffa (comic opera).
He also wrote serious secular and Above Looking down Jesi’s Corso Matteotti to
sacred music – his haunting hymn the influential musician Pergolesi. the Arch of Clementine
Stabat Mater is the best known. The entrance to the town is through
Gaspare Spontini (1774–1851), born the Arch of Clementine (1734) to
in Maiolati Spontini, was successful Corso Matteotti, the main shopping
during his lifetime, but his fame was street. To the right is the Pinoteca EAT AND DRINK
relatively short-lived and his music
is rarely performed today. Comunale in Palazzo Pianetti, a CUPRAMONTANA
wonderful Rococo building featuring
many works by Renaissance artists Trattoria Anita inexpensive
w Jesi including Lorenzo Lotto (1480–1557). A traditional, family-run trattoria
serving honest home-made food
Ancona, Le Marche; 60035 A little further along is the Piazza such as pasta, and lamb and rabbit
Jesi’s main claim to fame is as the della Repubblica and the grand dishes. Like everything else, the
birthplace of Frederick II, Emperor of Teatro Pergolesi. Continue straight house wine is their own – and good.
the Holy Roman Empire (1194), and on into the oldest part of town and Via F Filzi 5, 60034; 0731 780 311;
closed Tue in winter
the 15th-century Palazzo della
Below The River Esino, which runs from the hills Signoria, which now houses an JESI
of Le Marche into the Adriatic important library of 115,000 books. Pasticceria Bardi inexpensive
The medieval reading room, the Sala This makes a good stop for morning
Maggiore, still has its original coffee and a well-made pastry.
Corso Matteoti 27, 60034
wooden shelving. Further along still
is Piazza Federico II, site of the Roman L’Intreccio moderate
forum and where, according to This contemporary restaurant
specializes in fish dishes.
legend, Frederick II was born in a tent Via Rinaldi 15, 60035; 073 121 5018;
in 1194, much to the amazement of closed lunch & Tue
the locals. The Cattedrale di San Osteria I Spiazzi moderate
Settimio (open daily) was rebuilt in Enjoy excellent modern Marche food
Neo-Classical style in 1732 and retains in a medieval streetscape – try involtini
only elements of its earlier form. The con carciofi (pork rolls with artichoke),
Museo Diocesano (open am and late insalata di pollo con frutta (fruity chicken
salad) and heavenly ice creams.
pm on weekends) next door holds Pisazza Nova 8, 60034; 073 121 5961;
some interesting carved wood www.osteriaispiazzi.com; closed Mon–
pieces from the old churches of Jesi. Sat lunch
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the drive’s instructions from Città Turn right to caves. Return the same way.
The drive divides into three sections – to Gubbio, then take SS298, SS360,
for history buffs, for those looking for SP360 to Sassoferrato, and back. The wine castles of Jesi
peace and quiet and wine lovers. Start at Serra de’ Conti 0, with its
Woods and caves fine churches. Head to Cupramontana
Roman exploration Stock up on food in Cagli 4, then q, via the Castelli di Jesi of Monte
Start at Città di Castello 1, once Pliny drive to Eremo di Fonte Avellana 5. Roberto, Maiolati Spontini and
the Younger’s home town, then head Tour the monastery, then go for a Castelbellino, sampling the wine
to Pietralunga 2, with its Roman walk and a picnic. Drive through along the way. At Cupramontana,
fortress. Travel on to Gubbio 3 with Sassoferrato 6 to the Grotte di visit the Wine Label Museum and
its Roman Theatre and Gate, then Frasassi 8 for a tour. Return home. lunch there, then head to Jesi w,
enjoy lunch. Finally, head to historic Follow drive’s instructions from Cagli to with its fine palazzos and churches.
Sassoferrato 6, where the Romans Sassoferrato, then SP360 to Filipponi. Follow the drive’s instructions and back.
won control over Central Italy.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

230-235_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 235 21/09/17 11:19 am