Page 44 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

42 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Barbaresco holding in his right hand the griddle
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12050 on which he was martyred. Step
Barbaresco, overlooking the Tanaro inside the cathedral to see the lovely
river, makes a good introduction wooden choir stalls depicting still
to the hilltop villages of the Langhe lifes and townscapes, inlaid in 1512
area, whose vineyards spill down the by Bernardino Fossati. The main street,
slopes in geometric patterns towards Via Vittorio Emanuele II, is lined with
the rolling hills beyond. A stroll down shops selling truffles, oils, pastas,
Via Torino reveals characteristics wines, cheeses and chocolates.
typical of a wine-country village – ª Exit by Viale Torino to SP3bis, signed
a square 12th-century stone tower, Barolo. Turn left at Gallo for Grinzane
one of a string of medieval watch- Cavour (signposted). Park by the castle.
towers that once studded the region;
Above Alba’s main shopping street, Via a sundial (1999) illustrating the wine- Slow Food
Vittorio Emanuele II making process painted over a whole The region is known for its many food
wall of a house, and of course the festivals. The pleasures of the table
ubiquitous regional enoteca, housed were held in high regard even before
in the former church of San Donato. the Slow Food movement, which
ª Follow SP3 south to Tre Stelle and originated in Bra in 1986 in protest
at the opening of a McDonald’s near
continue along Via Rio Sordo to Alba. the Spanish Steps in Rome. The
WHERE TO STAY Cross the railway line into Viale movement promotes traditional,
Cherasca and take fourth exit into local, seasonal and sustainable food.
AROUND ALBA Corso M Coppino to a large parking Piedmont restaurants serve their local
Villa La Meridiana place at Piazza San Paolo. delicacies with pride. Look for bagna
Cascina Reinè inexpensive cauda (hot dip) – an olive oil dip
A liberty-style villa with great views, set 2 Alba with anchovies and garlic, fritto misto
among vineyards and orchards a short (fried meats), bollito misto (boiled
drive east of Alba on Viale Cherasca. Cuneo, Piemonte; 12051 meats), tajarin (egg tagliatelle) and
Truffle hunts can be arranged. Alba rose to prominence in medieval agnolotti (egg ravioli), the mountain
Località Altavilla 9, 12051; 0173 440 112; times, when 100 brick towers cheese castelmagno, and the “testicles
www.villalameridianaalba.it reportedly dominated its skyline. of the earth” – white truffles.
AROUND BAROLO Nowadays, there are only a few left
around the Piazza Duomo, and the
Cà San Ponzio inexpensive
This farmhouse offers charming rooms town stakes its claim to fame on the 3 Grinzane Cavour
and large breakfasts with delicious cakes. white truffle. During October and Cuneo, Piemonte; 12060
A short drive southwest of La Morra, November, swarms of chefs and food The magnificent 16th-century Castello
it’s a good base for wine-country tours. enthusiasts descend on the town to (closed Tue) dominates Grinzane Cavour.
Via Rittane 7, Frazione Vergne, 12060;
0173 560 510; www.casanponzio.com sample its musky delights. It seems It was once the home of Count Camillo
appropriate that the pink-brick Cavour, the town mayor for many
LA MORRA cattedrale (open daily) is dedicated years and a leading figure in the
Hotel Corte Gondina moderate to San Lorenzo, the patron saint of Italian Unification Movement of the
Stylish and elegant, this hotel has chefs. On its façade, he is portrayed 19th century. His bed, mayoral sash
fine antiques and furnishings, a lush
garden and pool. Good breakfast too.
Via Roma 100, 12064; 0173 509 781; Below left Green rolling hills and vineyards around Barbaresco Below right The famous truffle
www.cortegondina.it castello at Grinzane Cavour, looming high over the village

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 42 21/09/17 11:19 am
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