Page 45 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 2: In the Land of the Truffle 43

and some of his belongings are on
show, as well as a barrel-maker’s
workshop and an 18th-century
distillery. In November, the castle
gains worldwide attention with its
prestigious white truffle auction,
when astronomical amounts of
money – sometimes in excess of
£100,000 for a single lot – change
hands. More affordable for visitors
are the fine wines and grappas for
sale in the attached regional enoteca.
ª Follow SP3 southwest to Barolo
and park in Piazza Colbert. Above left The exquisite dome of the Chiesa
views across wine country. Pick up a Santa Chiara, Bra Above Atmospheric mist
map for vineyard hikes at the Cantina cloaking vineyards around La Morra
Comunale di La Morra here, or from
the tourist office. It’s an easy EAT AND DRINK
15-minute walk to the Cappella del
Barolo (open daily) at Brunate, a BARBARESCO
deconsecrated little church that was Antinè expensive
painted in strikingly bold colours by Michelin-starred restaurant serving veal
American artists Sol Lewitt and David with fried quail’s eggs and black truffle.
There’s also a well-priced tasting menu.
Tremlett in exchange for a supply Via Torino 16, 12050; 0173 635 294;
of Barolo wine. Or, drive to nearby www.antine.it; closed Wed, Jan & mid-
Annunziata, where the Ratti Abbey Aug; booking advised
and Wine Museum offers weekday ALBA
Above Road winding through the fertile guided tours and tastings. Piazza Duomo and La Piola
vineyards around La Morra ª On leaving La Morra take the left moderate–expensive
fork, follow SP58 and then SP661 Upstairs, the elegant Piazza Duomo
4 Barolo following signs to Bra. Park in Piazza comes under the Michelin-starred chef
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12060 XX Settembre. Enrico Crippa. On the ground floor, La
Piola offers less expensive, rustic fare.
The highlight of this diminutive town Pza Risorgimento 4, 12051. Duomo:
is the Castello dei Marchesi Falletti di 6 Bra 0173 366 167; www.piazzaduomoalba.
Barolo – the birthplace of Barolo, the Cuneo, Piemonte; 12042 it; closed Sun & Mon. Piola: 0173 44 28
“King of Wines”. The vineyard has This lively town (its name coming from 00; www.lapiola-alba.it;closed Sun eve &
increased its reputation as a centre of braida – planting vines in rows wide Sun lunch Dec–Sep
wine production with its innovative enough for grain to grow in between) Other options
interactive wine museum, WiMu (open is known as the headquarters of the Check out Tartufi Morra (Piazza
Pertinace 3) for truffles and the pasticceria
daily; closed 10–26 Dec, Jan–mid-Feb). Slow Food movement. As a result, Tartufi Ponzio (Via Vittorio Emanuele II
Through five floors of the castle, visitors food is an important part of any visit. 7A) for hazelnut chocolate truffles.
are enveloped in the history, art, Look for salsiccia di Bra (Bra sausage –
food, music, films, literature and local a mixture of veal, pork, herbs and AROUND BAROLO
traditions relating to the ambrosial spices) on the menus of the excellent Del Buon Padre moderate
liquid. The tour ends in the tempio restaurants here. The tall church of In a quiet village, this place serves
fonduta Piemontese (Piedmont cheese
dell’entourista (Wine Tourist’s Temple), Santa Chiara (open daily), built in 1742, fondue) and beef braised in Barolo.
where visitors can taste quality Barolo has a lovely Rococo interior and, in Via delle Viole 30, Vergne 12060;
for themselves. There’s an enoteca on the words of its creator Bernardo 0173 56192; www.buon-padre.com;
hand for those who want to buy. Antonio Vittone, “a diaphanous closed Wed & Mon–Fri lunch
ª Take the SP3 and at the dome” with an inner and outer shell, BRA
roundabout, take the first exit, SP58, which creates wonderful plays of Osteria del Boccondivino moderate
to La Morra. Park in Piazza Martiri. light. Chiesa di Sant’Andrea (open A founding member of the Slow Food
daily) is giddily Baroque, from its movement, this serves rabbit tajarin
5 La Morra statue-topped façade to its altar (thin tagliatelle) with butter and sage.
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12064 packed with candles. Antique toys Via Mendicità 14, 12042; 0172 425 674;
www.boccondivinoslow.it; closed Mon,
La Morra is another town that focuses feature in the Museo del Giocattolo Sun lunch Jun–Mar & Sun eve Jan–Sep
on wine, with plenty of atmospheric (open Sun and by appointment).
bars for tasting. A climb up through ª Take SS231 and SP662 westwards to Other options
Stock up on a Bra speciality, ciuk
the narrow streets to the Piazza Savigliano. Park in Viale del Sole or Viale (“drunken” cheese aged in grape skins),
Castello is rewarded with superb Gozzano around the Parco Graneris. from Giolito (Via Montegrappa 6).
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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