Page 48 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

46 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

stone houses with their wooden roofs
recall much earlier times. There are
lovely walks leading to waterfalls and
lakes from here (and from Chiappera,
a little further on), but arm yourself
with a good map before setting off.
ª Take SP422 back through Stroppo
and east to Dronero. Park in Piazza XX
Settembre on the west side of town.
For the Riserva Ciciu, take the SP24
towards Busca for 2 km (1 mile), then
turn left at the crossroads for Villar
Above left and right The pleasant townscape San Costanzo and follow the signs.
of Cuneo in Piedmont q Stroppo
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12020 e Dronero
VISITING DRONERO
The Valle Maira is lined with leafy Cuneo, Piemonte; 12025
Visitor Information orchards, thick woods and lush Dronero, where the old men play
Piazza XX Settembre, 12025; 0171 91 pastures that tinkle with the sound of petanque and you’ll hear the Occitan
70 80 cow bells. Stroppo, the valley’s capital language spoken, is home to the
in medieval times, has one church in crenellated Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s
WHERE TO STAY its square and another jutting out Bridge), built in 1492 across the Maira
dramatically on the spur above. This river. It’s a peaceful viewpoint over
STROPPO
is the 12th-century Chiesa di San the vegetable gardens and trout
Locanda alla Napoleonica inexpensive Peyre, which has a rocket-like bell ponds to the mountains beyond.
Four prettily furnished rooms in a
typical rustic 19th-century village tower and contains beautiful frescoes Also of interest are the octagonal
house, accessed down steep cobbled by the Master of Stroppo. To see inside, grain market and the Museo Civico
stone steps. There’s also a restaurant ask around for the key, then drive Luigi Mallé (open Sat & Sun), with
offering refined occitan specialities. further up to park on a small patch displays on art, the town and art
Bassura di Stroppo, 12020; 0171 999 of grass opposite the church. historian Luigi Mallé’s life. Drive to the
277; www.locandanapoleonica.it
ª Take the slow SP422 west to Acceglio. nearby Riserva Naturale Ciciu del Villar
CUNEO AND AROUND at Villar San Costanzo. Clustered in the
Tetto Garrone inexpensive w Acceglio woods, the ciciu (“puppets”) are huge,
Surrounded by nut groves, this lovely Cuneo, Piemonte; 12021 eroded rocks with stone caps, up
farmhouse has large modern rooms, a At an altitude of 1,220 m (4,000 ft), to 10 m (30 ft) high. They were left
courtyard garden of white flowers and Acceglio is the last town of the Valle behind after the glaciers retreated.
a kitchen for the use of guests.
Via Campagna 45, Roata Rossi, 12100 Maira. During the 16th century, it was There are some great views and it
(Roata Rossi is signposted off SR589); a stronghold of Calvinism, allowing is an excellent spot for a picnic.
0171 682 841; www.tettogarrone.it; the Huguenots to flee here over the ª Follow SP422 to Caraglio, then the
closed in winter nearby French border. Trees line the SP23 to Borgo San Dalmazzo and the
Lovera Palace moderate broad river, peaks loom above and the SS20 towards Valdieri. Look for signs
Elegant hotel with 40 rooms, central
location and garage parking – a king
and a pope have been past guests. It
can organize truffle hunts in autumn.
Via Roma 37, Cuneo, 12100; 0171 690
420; www.palazzolovera.com
Other options
For those who fancy a traditional spa
hotel, the Hotel Royal at Terme di
Valdieri opens from June to September.
0171 97106; www.termerealidivaldieri.it

Right Lago della Rovina, in the pristine
environment of the Parco delle Alpi Marittime
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 46 06/10/17 4:05 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont