Page 47 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 2: In the Land of the Truffle 45

Volta, lined with porticoes, to and the exquisite Madonna della
Piazzetta dei Mondagli 3, where, at Misericordia altarpiece in Room 5. Don’t
number 5, the 19th-century writer miss the glorious panoramic view.
and leading figure of the Go down steps to Via Deodata
Risorgimento, Silvio Pellico, was born. and Via Gualtieri and exit the walls
Go up a steep flight of cobbled steps at Piazza Vineis into Corso Italia (and
to Salita al Castello, past Renaissance the cathedral again). Head back
houses with frescoes, loggias and along Viale della Liberazione and
terracotta decoration, and on to the Via Savigliano to the car.
Torre Civica 4 (closed Fri–Sun), built in ª Take SP589 to Verzuolo, then SP8
1462. Climb up for marvellous views to Sampeyre. The road is slow, with
over the medieval rooftops to the some sharp bends. Park in Piazza
mountains. At the top of the Salita are della Vittoria.
the Piazza Castello 5, the Fontana
della Drancia (a favourite spot for 9 Sampeyre
newly married couples to be Cuneo, Piemonte; 12020
photographed), and the bulky The road follows and crosses the
Castiglia 6 with its formidable keep Varaita river as it winds its way through Above The rugged Valle Maira seen from
– once home to the marquises and the Valle Varaita to the largest town in the road to Elva Below Stream cascading
later (until 1922) a prison. the area, Sampeyre, which is a popular through the lush Valle Varaita
Retrace your steps from the castle base for summer hikes. Visit the
to see the brick church and the tourist office in Piazza della Vittoria
Romanesque bell tower of San for information. Along the way, leafy
Giovanni 7, begun in 1330. If the woods and lofty mountains frame the
church is open, look in at the frescoes views. Of interest are the terracotta
by Pietro da Saluzzo and, in the apse, church of Santi Pietro e Paolo (open
the Cappella dei Marchesi, burial daily), which has frescoes by the Biazaci
place of Ludovico II, who is ornately brothers, and a small, but packed
displayed as a medieval knight. Museo Etnografico (Jul & Aug: open daily;
Continue along Via San Giovanni Sep open Sun and last Sat). The more
to the 15th-century palazzo, Casa adventurous can drive up to the Colle
Cavassa 8, which now houses the di Sampeyre, the less adventurous
Museo Civico (10am–1pm & 2–5pm can take the chairlift to the Sant’Anna EAT AND DRINK
Tue–Sun; tours at 11am & 4pm Sat–Sun & valley. Either way, the view is dramatic
hol. Closed Mon & Wed). Originally the and awe-inspiring. On the way to SALUZZO
home of the Vicar General of the Sampeyre, stop at Piasco (look for the Casa Pellico moderate
Marquis, Galeazzo Cavassa, it was brown sign) to visit the Victor Salvi Located in the historic centre, this
restaurant offers traditional
restored by a devotee of the arts in Harp Museum (Jun–Sep: open Mon–Fri; Piedmontese dishes with an
the 1880s and filled with Renaissance Oct–May: open Sun–Fri). innovative twist. Dishes feature superb
art and antiques. There are also fine ª Follow the signs for Elva, turning local ingredients including Cuneo ham
frescoes, friezes and coffered ceilings. right onto the SP335 at Goria Ugo. The and a range of execellent cheeses.
Good wine list, friendly service and a
Hans Clemer painted the grisaille road is extremely steep and mostly modern atmosphere.
(monochrome) frescoes of the Labours single track with hairpin bends. Piazzetta dei Mondagli, 12037; 0175
of Hercules on the courtyard arcades, 468 33; www.casapellico.it; closed Mon
0 Elva
Above Painted trompe l’oeil doorway in the heart Cuneo, Piemonte; 12020
of Saluzzo’s old town There’s plenty of space to stop and
admire the awesomely rugged view
from the southern side of the Colle di
Sampeyre. Wood and rubble houses
line the isolated valley at Elva, a village
once famous for collecting and selling
women’s hair for wigmaking. The
15th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria
Assunta, decorated with animal and
human heads on its exterior capitals,
is adorned inside with a colourful
series of frescoes by Hans Clemer.
ª The SP335 is signposted to Stroppo.
Park in the square by the church.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 45 21/09/17 11:19 am