Page 93 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 8: The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige 91

EAT AND DRINK
ª Continue north up the Val Passiria
(Passeiertal) for 15 km (10 miles). Look MERANO
out for the Sandwirt inn on the right, Trattoria Mainardo moderate
just before San Leonardo. The museum This simple eatery is popular for its
is next to it. Park outside the restaurant hearty, delicious dishes made with
or in the car park left off the main road. fresh ingredients. Lovely, cozy
atmosphere and attentive service.
Via Mainardo 19; 0345 157 5412;
Andreas Hofer closed Sun
An innkeeper and cattle dealer,
Andreas Hofer (1767–1810) fought Sissi expensive
A top restaurant where renowned chef
for the Tyrol’s autonomy after it was Andrea Fenoglio produces modern
ceded to Bavaria in 1805. He Italian cuisine with a regional bent.
became a reluctant hero of the Galileistrasse 44, 39012; 0473 231
people after successful uprisings 062; www.sissi.andreafenoglio.com;
against Bavarian and Napoleonic
4 Val Senales (Schnalstal) troops. However, larger political closed Mon
Alto Adige; 39020 forces overtook him and he was AROUND SAN VIGILIO
Perched on a rocky outcrop, the betrayed to the invaders. Napoleon Pfefferlechner moderate
little church of Monte Santa Caterina supposedly gave the order to “give A down-to-earth place dating back to
(Katharinaberg) is one of the few him a fair trial and then shoot him”. 1297, where they brew their own beer,
He was executed in Mantua in 1810.
landmarks on the drive up the steep, distill their own schnapps and produce
wooded Senales valley. Many twists their own smoked bacon and trout.
Order the “Gupffleisch” in advance –
and turns lead to Certosa (Karthaus), 6 MuseumPasseier neck of pork in schnapps, with bacon
a village with a famous church and Alto Adige; 39015 dumplings and white cabbage. Kid-
cloister, home to a silent order of The Sandwirt inn was the birthplace friendly, there’s also a beer garden and
monks from 1326–1725. Continue of Andreas Hofer – the former stables playground outside and the medieval
dining rooms overlook the stables.
higher still to the Archeoparc (Jun– next door are now a museum (closed St Martinsweg 4, 39011 Lana; 0473
Nov: open daily) – a fascinating Mon except Aug & Sep) in his memory. 562 521; www.pfefferlechner.it
re-creation of a late Neolithic village A short film (in Italian, German and
in an Alpine landscape (1,500 m/4,921 English) tells Hofer’s story, giving an AROUND MUSEUMPASSEIER
ft) that was home to Ötzi the Iceman. insight into the Tyrolean fight for Trattoria Lamm moderate
The fascinating remains of this Copper independence – always with a In the main square of the village, the
17th-century Lamm inn prides itself
Age man were found mummified in strong identity, Alto Adige is, to this on its simple Tyrolean dishes, such as
the glacier above the valley in 1991, day, an autonomous province. The home-made pasta, and a lovely strudel
and now rest in Bolzano (see p100). museum reveals traditional Alpine made with local honey.
At the Archeoparc, visitors can try life via indoor displays and an open- Via Villaggio 36, 39010 San Martino in
their hand at archery, making fire, air exhibition of wooden chalets, Passiria (just before MuseumPasseier);
0473 641 240; www.gasthaus-lamm.it;
smelting copper ore, working a flint with barns and grain storage, a skittle closed Sun eve & Mon
tool or baking bread in the typical alley, beehives, a communal oven, a
domed ovens of 5,000 years ago. mill for making loden (local felt fabric)
ª Drive back down the valley and turn and a schnapps still.
left to Merano. In the town centre, pick ª Continue into San Leonardo in
up the brown signs for Val Passiria Passiria (St Leonhard). Take a right,
(Passeiertal), then Tirolo (Tirol). following the brown signs for the Below 12th-century Tirol Castle looks down
Parking is on the left, before the castle. Passo di Monte Giovo (Jaufenpass). on 13th-century Brunnenburg Castle
5 Castel Tirolo (Schloss Tirol)
Alto Adige; 39019
Such was the power of the counts of
Tirol, who built their mountain eyrie
in a strategic position on a hillside
above Merano, that the whole region
was named after them. Surrounded
by lush forest, this huge 12th-century
castle is well preserved and its keep,
temple, knight’s hall (an occasional
concert venue) and refectory are all
open to visitors. Within the complex
is a museum (mid-Mar–early Dec: open
Tue–Sun) of daily life in the Middle
Ages, with interactive displays.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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