Page 97 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 8: The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige 95

Reinhold Messner
Mountaineer Reinhold Messner grew
up in Val di Funes (Villnöss) and learnt
to climb with his father. Messner
thought the usual “siege” techniques
used on mountaineering expeditions
were disrespectful to the environ­
ment and pioneered the Alpine style
of climbing – using minimal equip­
ment – in the Himalayas. He is
famous for making the first solo
Everest ascent without oxygen and
went on to become the first man to
climb all 14 of the world’s peaks over
8,000 m (26,250 ft). He founded a
mountain museum at five locations Above left Houses from the 16th and 17th
in the South Tyrol: the newest thanks to its position on the trade centuries, Brunico Above Castello di Brunico,
opened in 2011 in Brunico (Bruneck). route between Venice and Germany. home to the Messner Mountain Museum
In 2011, Reinhold Messner opened the Ripa Below left Cycling on the Alta Pusteria
doors to this fifth part of the Messner bikepath near Brunico (Bruneck)
w MMM Ripa at Mountain Museum Ripa – inside the
Brunico (Bruneck) Castello di Brunico (Jun–Sep & 8 Dec–
Alto Adige; 39031 Easter Mon: open Wed–Mon). The display EAT AND DRINK
The main market town of the Val is a tribute to the mountain peoples
Pusteria (Pustertal), Brunico (Bruneck) of the world who have made their AROUND PASSO DELL’ERBE
grew up around the castle built in homes at the very margins of where Hotel Lech da Sompunt expensive
1250 by the Prince­Bishop of Brixen, it is possible to live – Sherpas, Indios, Try spit­roasted porchetta (suckling
Bruno of Wullenstätten, and flourished Tibetans, Walser, Mongols and Hunzas. pig), fondue, and fresh trout from their
pond. Other specialities include canederli
(dumplings) and Kaiserschmarren (sweet
cranberry pancake). They also offer
simple, Tyrolean rooms to stay in.
Str Sompunt 36, 39036 Pedraces
(about 12 km/8 miles south of San
Martino on SP244); 0471 847 015;
www.lechdasompunt.it; closed 7 Apr–
10 Jun, Oct & Nov
Maso Runch expensive
Just east of Badia, this restaurant is
popular for its hearty six­course menu.
After rustic appetisers, expect home­
made ricotta and spinach ravioli, pork
shin with sauerkraut, local wine to
drink and apple strudel for dessert.
Runch 11, 39036 Pedraces (about 12 km/
8 miles south of San Martino on SP244);
0471 839 796; www.masorunch.it
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take SS44 north from Merano, turn left Access all from the Passiria/Passeier
To break up the tour into day trips to Tirolo. Return to Merano, access Val valley road (the SS44).
for adults and children, use either Senales via SS38, picked up just outside
Merano or Bressanone as a base. Merano. Lana is also close to Merano – Taste of the mountains
follow SS238 for Bolzano/Bozen/Lana. Stock up on an Alpine picnic at the
Ice Man adventure bustling Saturday farmer’s market in
Children will enjoy travelling from Tyrolean treats Bressanone 9 or DeGust in Varna
Merano 1 and visiting the castle Plunge into the Tyrolean past at the (see p93) and hit the high­level trails
and interactive museum at Castel MuseumPasseier 6, then head up in the Val di Funes 0 or do a bit of
Tirolo 5. Next, it’s off to the to “drive over the roof of Italy” and the Alta Via 2 footpath from Passo
Archeoparc in Val Senales 4 to enjoy a high­altitude coffee or drink dell’Erbe q. Head on to the
discover how the Ötzi the Ice Man at the Passo di Monte Giovo 7. Return mountain museum at Brunico w
lived. Enjoy dinner at Pfefferlechner to Merano 1 to explore the botanical to learn about real mountain living.
in Lana (see p91), with its adventure gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.
playground and animals as well Finish off the day with a relaxing Follow the driving instructions from
as great food and beer brewed splash in the thermal pools at Bressanone to Val di Funes, Passo
on the premises. Merano’s beautiful new spa complex. dell’Erbe and Brunico. Return via SS49.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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