Page 96 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

94 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

q Passo dell’Erbe (Würzjoch)
Alto Adige; 39030
This road pass reaches more or less
the same giddy heights as some of
the more famous Dolomite passes,
but is one much less commercialized
and the view of the mountains on
the approach is sensational. Alta Via
2, one of the high-level trans-Dolomite
footpaths, crosses the road between
Kopfel Joch and Würzjoch, so parking
and having a half-hour or so walk in
either direction will give a flavour of
hiking these high trails. A visit to the
Ütia de Börz inn at the pass is
recommended – the food is good
and it is also a fabulous base for a
Above The church of Santa Maddalena, in an few days hiking (half-board and
idyllic setting in the Val di Funes (Villnöss) 0 Val di Funes (Villnöss) minimum three-day stay preferred).
Alto Adige; 39040 ª From the pass, descend to San
HIKING IN THE VAL DI FUNES A real gem of a valley, the spectacular Martino (St Martin) in Badia, passing
Kompass walking maps (1 cm : 500 m) Val di Funes is characterized by walls Ciastel de Tor. Turn left on the SS244
are essential as they show footpaths, of grey saw-toothed peaks – the Puez towards Brunico. Follow the signs for
level of difficulty and the steepness Odle (Puez Geisler) mountains – Brunico centre and the MMM Ripa.
of the terrain. Trails are simple to follow rising above the lush, green rolling Park at the castle.
– red and white blazes painted on
rocks and trees to keep walkers on meadows that open out after Funes.
the right path. Mountain refuges offer It’s a beautiful part of the drive for a Törggelen
good food and drink en route. gentle walk, or to spend a half-day An old South Tyrolean tradition, the
on a more ambitious hike such as Törggelen season roughly coincides
WHERE TO STAY the Adolf Munkel path – a five-hour with the arrival of the new season’s
circular trail that starts and ends in wine (Oct–mid-Nov). It’s a time when
AROUND VAL DI FUNES people go for hikes and gather to
Zannes (Zanser Alm) at the head of
Ansitz Ranuihof inexpensive the valley (see www.suedtirol.info; feast on local specialities before the
Once a hunting lodge, this farmhouse Kompass map 55). The path climbs onset of winter. The name comes
offers six comfortable doubles; breakfast from the Latin word torquere, to turn
includes milk and eggs from the farm. to 2,000 m (6,560 ft), at one point, or squeeze – referring to pressing
San Maddalena (St Magdalena) 39, giving panoramic views, and there grapes to make wine. Some say the
39040 Val di Funes (Villnöss) (after Funes, are huts or rifugi en route for tradition came from wine merchants
veer south to San Maddalena then revitalizing refreshments. visiting the wine growers to try the
take the road to St Johann and Ranui); new wine – after the tasting, they
0472 840 506; www.ranuihof.com ª From Funes, take SP163 uphill to would be given a feast. A typical
the signposted Kopfel Joch pass. There, Törggelen spread involves speck or
Below Alpe di Zannes and Le Odle ranges turn right on SP29 to the Passo dell’Erbe sausage, roast chestnuts and breads.
with Geisler Spitzen (Würzjoch). Park at Ütia de Börz inn.

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

090-095_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 94 21/09/17 11:17 am