Page 94 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

92 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

7 Passo di Monte 8 Abbazia di
Giovo (Jaufenpass) Novacella (Neustift)
Alto Adige; 39010 Alto Adige; 39040
Leaving the Passeier valley behind, In the 17th century, the Augustinian
there will be plenty of bikers and monks of Novacella commissioned a
perhaps a few hardy cyclists for Weltwunder-Brunnen, a depiction of
company on the ear-popping ascent the Seven Wonders of the World, for
to the Passo di Monte Giovo (2,094 their abbey, which had long been an
m/6,870 ft). This is the most northerly important centre of learning in the
road pass in Italy, giving access to Tyrol. In a moment of immodesty,
stunning views of ridge after ridge they added their church to the picture
along the Austro-Italian border. The as world wonder number eight. The
big skies and saw-toothed peaks, with abbey (closed Sun; Jan–Mar also closed
Above The road over the top of Italy at Passo a dusting of snow even in summer, Mon) offers a lot for the visitor to see,
di Monte Giovo (Jaufenpass) make it feel like driving over the top with its impressive bell tower and
of the world. As the landscape opens basilica, medieval cloister with
VISTING BRESSANONE out to high moorland, there are 14th-century frescoes, its maze of
opportunities to stop for a coffee and painting-lined galleries, gardens and
Parking admire the glorious views at makeshift a library in which the monks still
Park off Via Brennero (Brennerstrasse)
on the road from Novacella. Free parking roadside bars before making the long, work. The complex, built in southern
(max 2 hrs) just outside the pedestrian winding descent to Vipiteno (Sterzing) German Baroque style, is a great place
zone by the riverside at Stufles. in the Isarco (Eisack) valley. to wander and enjoy: surrounded by
Tourist Information ª Join A22 south towards Bolzano vineyards, the abbey makes its own
Viale Ratisbona 9 (Regensburger Allee (Bozen)/Verona. Take Bressanone wine which can be sampled in the
9); 0472 836 401; www.brixen.org Nord (Varna) exit and turn right towards small restaurant (closed weekends),
Bressanone. Exit from SS12, pass or bought from the shop.
through Varna following brown signs ª Exit the abbey and take SS12
WHERE TO STAY
for Quartiere Leone (Löwenhof), (not the motorway) into Bressanone.
ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA then take the road for Abbazia di Park just outside the pedestrianized
Pacherhof inexpensive Novacella on the left. historic centre.
Near the abbey, this hotel makes its
own wine from vineyards dating from
the 11th century. Rooms have wooden 9 Bressanone (Brixen)
floors and spacious bathrooms; some Alto Adige; 39042
have balconies, and there’s a huge pool.
Vicolo Pacher 1, 39040 Novacella; 0472 With its cobbled streets, medieval arcades and classic beer gardens,
835 717; www.pacherhof.com; closed Bressanone (Brixen) seems like a busy metropolis after the quiet valleys
mid-Jan–mid-Mar earlier in the drive. Rich and powerful, Bressanone became an
BRESSANONE AND AROUND independent principate in the 11th century and its ruling bishops
Elephant inexpensive were constantly jockeying for power with the counts of Tyrol. Today,
This hotel has an elegant touch of this attractive town is the artistic and cultural capital of the region.
faded grandeur, and is centrally
located. It also has a formal restaurant
and more casual enoteca (wine bar). A two-hour walking tour the Gothic Kreuzgang 2 (cloister),
Via Rio Bianco 4, Bressanone; 047 This walk is best done Tue–Sat, when with a series of richly frescoed
283 2750; www.hotelelephant.com
the shops and museums are open vaulted archways painted between
Ansitz zum Steinbock moderate and the town is bustling. It begins 1370 and 1510 by artists from
Beamed ceilings and white-washed in Piazza Duomo (Domplatz), still Bressanone and Brunico (Bruneck).
walls characterize the uncluttered bed-
rooms in this imposing building, 18 km the focus of the town.
(11 miles) southwest of Bressanone, Bressanone’s cathedral, The Dom 1
just beyond Chiusa (Klausen). (open daily), was built in the 10th
Vicolo F. v. Defregger 1439040 Villandro century, rebuilt in the 13th century
(Villanders); 0472 843 111; www. and rebuilt again, in lavish Baroque
zumsteinbock.com; closed Jan
style, between 1745 and 1758, when
its twin onion domes were added. The
broad, vaulted nave is richly decorated
in marble and stucco with a ceiling
fresco of the Adoration of the Lamb by
Paul Troger (1698–1762), an Austrian
Right Pedestrians wander the narrow streets known for his illusionist paintings.
of Bressanone’s old town Through the cathedral’s right door is
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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