Page 95 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 8: The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige 93

Above left The Abbazia di Novacella, set among
Return to Domplatz and turn into part of St Michael’s parish church. At vineyards Above right The Colossus, one of the
Piazza Parrocchia (Pfarrplatz), passing the cathedral, bear right into the Wonders of the World, Abbazia di Novacella
the Pfaundlerhaus 3 – a Gothic Portici Maggiori (Grosse Lauben) 8,
palazzo with a lavish Renaissance a shopping arcade that dates back to
façade. At the crossroads, turn right medieval times, but is now home to
into Via San Albuino (Albuingasse) fashion and speciality food shops.
and walk to Piazza Seminario Take a left turn into the small galleries TYROLEAN FOOD SHOPPING
(Seminarplatz) and the interesting of the Portici Minori (Kleine Lauben) Located just the other side of the river
18th-century seminary 4 (now a 9, built in the 1400s, then continue to the Abbazia di Novacella, DeGust
theology college) with views of Plose along Vicolo Vescovado (Hofgasse) to (Zona Bsackerau 1 Löwecenter, Varna;
mountain (2,500 m/8,200 ft) behind the Palazzo Vescovile (Hofburg) 0 0472 84 9873; www.degust.com;
it. Backtrack via the riverside Vicolo (Bishop’s Palace), surrounded by a closed Sun) sells well over 100 Italian
artisan cheeses, including Alpine styles
della Ghiare (Griesgasse) to the moat. The inner courtyard has such as the bittersweet blue cheese
Aquila (Adler) bridge, crossing the Renaissance archways that lead to the Golden Gel, matured in sweet grapes
River Eisack into the Stufels Museo Diocesano (Diozesanmuseum) and wrapped in hay. There are also
(Stufles) 5 district, the oldest part (closed Mon, Nov & Feb–mid-March). The preserves, chutneys, salamis and South
of Bressanone, doing a loop past the exhibits reveal just how powerful Tyrolean speck (smoked ham) for sale.
Schutzangelkirche (church) and Bressanone’s bishop-princes were:
the theatre back to the bridge. among the fine displays is a Byzantine
Recross the river to the Museo della silk cloak decorated with a stylized
Farmacia (Pharmaziemuseum) 6 eagle, the personal emblem of Bishop
(Tue–Wed 2–6pm, Sat 11am–4pm; Jul & Albuino – a gift from Emperor Henry II.
Aug open Mon–Fri & Sat, same hours). This Next to the palace is the Giardino dei
contains a fascinating collection of Signori (Herrengarten) q, a peaceful
antique vials for lotions and potions, monastery-style garden growing
as well as ornate medical manuals vegetables, herbs and flowers.
covering 400 years of medical ª Follow the road for the highway,
history. Re-enter the historic centre but before Chiusi’s exit, turn left
by the Torre Bianca (Weissenturm) and follow the brown signs for Val
gate 7 – the white tower is actually di Funes (Villnöss).
PASSAGGIO PO R TICI Pfaundlerhaus R A P P A N L A G E N ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA
G R O S S E R G R A B E N (Adlerbrücke) (Stufles) EAT AND DRINK
Stufels
Pont Aquila
VIA PONTE AQUILA
UNTERE
(Pharmaziemuseum)
PORTICI MAGGIORI (GROSSE LAUBEN) PIAZZA Museo della Farmacia Other options moderate
Pacherhof (see p92) has four panelled
PARROCCHIA
(PFARRPLATZ)
SCHUTZENGELGASSE
Torre Bianca Gate stube, one of which is said to be the
(Weissenturm) (GRIESGASSE) oldest in South Tyrol. The menu gives a
PIAZZA The Dom modern spin on Tyrolean cuisine, using
DUOMO
VICOLO DELLA GHIARE
(DOMPLATZ) vegetables from their own garden.
(KLEINE LAUBEN)
PORTICI MIN O RI
ERHARDGASSE SEMINIARIO S EMINARGAS S E
VICOLO DEL DUOMO
Kreuzgang PIAZZA E i s a c k BRESSANONE
(SEMINARPLATZ)
Seminary Oste Scuro (Finsterwirt) expensive
Giardino dei Excellent local delicacies and a great
(HOFGASSE)
VICOLO VESCOVAD O
KLEINER GRABEN REGENBURGER ALLEE Signori (Herrengarten)
HOFBURG- atmosphere in this much-loved
PLATZ VIA BRUNO (BRUNOGASSE) 0 metres 100
Palazzo Vescovile restaurant; good wine list, too.
(Hofburg) Vicolo del Duomo 3, Bressanone; 0472
VIA SAN ALBUINO (ALBUING ASSE)
0 yards 100 835 343; www.finsterwirt.com; closed
Sun eve & Mon, Jun
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
090-095_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 93 21/09/17 11:17 am