Page 100 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Mallorca, Menorca & Ibiza

98  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA M AÓ  99

1 Maó vegetable market, where queso piece with 3,120 pipes. Look VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Mahón, one of Spain’s most out for the figures of trumpet-
In some respects, Maó (or Mahón in Spanish) is like a small, delicious cheeses, is much in blowing angels. Practical Information
provincial town. A pretty place, it has a population of almost evidence. Here, you can also * 29,000.
30,000 and lies on the steep, southern shore of an inlet that buy meat and other food P Ajuntament n Moll de Llevant 2, 971 355
952. ( Tue & Sat. _ Procesión
is one of the best natural harbours in the world. The remains products, as well as souvenirs. Plaça Constitució. Marinera de la Verge del Carme
The town hall was built in 1613
The rows of market stalls set
of the old city walls, several beautiful churches, colourful under the figures of the saints and its façade remodelled in (mid-Jul), Verge de Gràcia
Spanish mansions and Georgian town houses make it a and other religious symbols 1789, giving it a typically Spanish (7–9 Sep). ∑ menorca.es
fascinating place to explore. At the same time, it is the provide a strange contrast. appearance. It features an orna- Transport
island’s capital and is a city of culture – its Teatre Principal mental clock, presented to the @ g k 5 km (3 miles)
was the first opera house in Spain when it opened in 1829. E Centre d’Art i d’Història town by Richard Kane, the first southwest, 902 404 704.
Hernández Sanz British governor of Menorca.
C/ Anuncivay 2. Tel 971 356 523. Inside, the walls are lined with
Exploring Maó Open 10am–1:30pm & 6–8pm Façade of the Ajuntament opposite Església portraits of local notables, French Tours of the harbour in a glass-
When exploring Maó, it is best to Mon & Wed–Sat, 10am–1:30pm Sun. de Santa Maria and Spanish governors and, still bottomed boat leave regularly
start from Plaça d’Espanya. Here, This museum is something of a hanging to this day, portraits of from Maó and Es Castell.
and around the neighbouring hotch­potch. The ground floor R Santa Maria the British monarch George III
squares, are the town’s main displays the mansion to fine Plaça Constitució. Tel 971 363 949. alongside Queen Charlotte.
historic buildings. The whole advantage, especially its Open 8am & 7pm Mon–Sat; 8am,
district is dominated by the vast Italianate murals; a further 11am, noon, 8:30pm Sun. g Harbour
Baroque church of Santa Maria. section traces the evolution This church near the town hall The best way to arrive in Maó is
For most people, however, the of Maó as a port through a was begun in 1287 on the site by sea so that you catch your
real pleasure is in strolling along collection of vintage maps. of a mosque, after the defeat of first sight of its magnificent
the narrow alleys of old Maó and The most interesting section, the Moors by Alfonso III. Rebuilt natural harbour from the prow of
soaking up its unique atmo­ however, is devoted to British in a Neo-Classical style in the a ship. Several centuries ago the
sphere. Some of Maó’s streets Menorca. Here, you’ll find a sort 18th century, it was remodelled famous Genoese admiral Andrea
have restricted car access, turning of “speaking clock” of Menorcan several times after that. The large Doria concluded that June, July,
them into virtual pedestrian words and phrases derived from interior has retained much of its August and Mahón were the
precincts. Stopping for a rest Plaça Espanya, with the Baroque church of the English language. Upstairs Catalan Gothic austerity and is best ports in the Mediterranean,
in one of the numerous cafés Santa Maria in the background is devoted to 18th­ and 19th­ devoid of any ornamentation, by which he meant that outside
is an experience to savour. century Menorca, with cameos with only the transept and the the safe sailing season of the
The complex, mostly closed to of islanders in traditional cos­ vaults featuring rich Baroque summer months, it was prudent
R Església del Carme visitors, occupies the vast quarter tume and temporary displays decora tions. The most striking to seek shelter here.
Plaça Carme. between Plaça Carme and Plaça of modern, mostly local, art. elements are the Rococo main Today, the tranquil atmosphere
This imposing Baroque church de la Miranda. The square behind altarpiece and the vast organ, of the harbour makes it difficult
began life as a Carmelite con vent the monastery offers a beautiful P Plaça Espanya built in 1806 by the Swiss maker to imagine a time when this was Maó, perched on steep slopes, seen from
in 1751. In 1835, the convent was view over the harbour. Plaça Espanya is the central Johann Kyburz. It is a mighty once a vast British naval base. the harbour
confiscated by the State, and square of old Maó. A busy fish
the building was substantially P Mercat Sa Plaça Carme market occupies a circular
restored in 1941 after being Plaça Carme. Open 9am–9pm bastion on the north side, offer­ Mao
damaged during the Spanish Mon–Sat. ing countless varieties of fish, 1 Església del Carme
Civil War. The cavernous interior Maó’s famous town market squid, shellfish and other sea­ 2 Mercat Sa Plaça Carme ES GRAU
of the former church, one of the (Mercat) takes place in the food. From here, steps lead 3 Centre d’Art i d’Història
biggest in Maó, is preserved in a deconsecrated cloisters adjoin­ down to Maó’s waterfront. Hernández Sanz Sant
Neo­Classical style, but despite ing the Església del Carme. The 4 Plaça Espanya Francesc Harbour
its proportions it gives an cool cloister has been turned Fundació Teatre Principal 5 Teatre Principal C OS T A D ’ E S G E N E R A L
impression of emptiness. into a picturesque fruit and Costa d’en Deià 40. Tel 971 355 603. CAR RER D E I SAB EL II C . MOLL DE PONENT
∑ teatremao.com 6 Santa Maria C. DE FRARES C . D E S A NT J AU ME
Maó’s theatre opened in 1829, 7 Ajuntament Ajuntament
and beats the Liceu in Barcelona 8 Harbour C. DE S' ARRAVA L C. BONNAIRE C . COST A DE SES VO LT E S
and Teatro Real in Madrid to be C. DE ST. ROC CONSTITUCIÓ PLAÇA Santa Maria
Spain’s first opera house. Built by PLAÇA C . E SG LÉ S IA Fish PLAÇA DE LA
MIRANDA
BASTIÓ
the Italian singer and architect, C. DE FORN ALA IOR Market Mercat
Sa Plaça
Giovanni Palagi, it was often SA RO VE LL A DA D E BAI X BASTIÓ C. HANNOVER COLÓN Plaça PLAÇA Carme
C. DE
CARME
PLAÇA C. NOU Espanya
chosen by the big Spanish Airport Teatre Principal S‘ARRABALETA Església PLAÇA
5 km (3 miles)
opera companies to premiere ROVELLADA DE DALT C. COSTA D’EN DEIÁ del Carme PRINCEP
C. DE
their Spanish tours. Today, it is PLAÇA SANT JORDI PLAÇA A N UNCI VAY ES CASTELL
REIAL
used mainly as a cinema, but it ESPLANADA Centre d’Art i d’Història
C. DE SANT JOSEP
also hosts some concerts and Bus C. DE LOS MORERES Hernández Sanz
Terminal
cultural events, including an
annual musical festival in July 0 metres 200
and August and a week of 0 yards 200
Narrow alleys leading away from Maó’s old centre opera in June and December.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp150–51 and pp159–61 For keys to symbols see back flap
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